Judith Butler describes gender as “an identity instituted through a stylized repetition of acts”. In other words, it is something learnt through repeated performance.
How useful is this idea in understanding gender is represented in both the Score and Maybelline advertising campaigns?
I am going to be discussing how gender ‘the range of characteristics pertaining to, and differentiating between femininity and masculinity.’ is presented through the score and Maybelline advertising campaigns. I will also be discussing the changes of gender and gender representation.
Judith Butler, is an American philosopher and gender theorist. Butler argues that gender is a performance and not something that we are simply born with, we learn and adapt to become a certain gender; Contrasting to Laura Mulveys’ idea of ‘fixed gender’. Butler believes that gender is fluid, changeable and plural, being born into a certain sex, does not determine behaviour, people simply adapt and grasp onto the ways of society, whether it be male characteristics such as: football, video games, or more feminine characteristics such as: makeup and shopping “Our genders are culturally rather naturally formed”. Harry styles, an inspirational singer and activist has lead the way in breaking negative stereotypes surrounding gender, identity and sexuality. This brand ‘pleasing’ is a range of beauty products aimed at all genders. Styles, being an influential opinion leader, voices his views on masculinity and femininity in a radical way by presenting himself in a feminine manor. Styles is a perfect representation of Butlers gender being performative. Harry Styles claims that he aims to “blur the boundaries” of the gender binary and show that regardless of what you identify yourself as, beauty cosmetics is for everyone, not just women.
Butlers theory relates to the past norms of society, such as the idea from the 1900’s where the men would go to work while the women would stay home and do ‘feminine’ tasks such as: cooking, cleaning and caring for the children. Women were often stereotyped as weak, incapable and treated subordinately to men, The expectations and stereotypes of men and women are massively defined in the score advert.
The score advert is a historical artefact from 1967, we are presented with the contrast in gender roles and sexuality. The mens hair cream product features a frenzy of women dressed in little clothing posing voyeuristically. They are holding up the dominant signifier the man symbolising a hunter in what we are presented as Africa. We can see the man holding a presumably “loaded gun”, possibly corresponding to the sexual theme of the ad. Laura Mulveys theory of the male gaze is hugely displayed in this advert, the product aimed at men, displays a hierarchy through the mans placement above the women. It could be suggested that the women are the hunters pray. The man is above the women, at the top of the mice-en-scene, connoting his higher power, strength, and possibly in control of the women. Three of the women are staring at the man in absolute awe of his presence. The placement of the women is crucial in this advertisement, we can see the blonde woman at the back reaching for the male, accompanied by the brown haired woman looking directly at the viewer suggesting, they too can have this female attention and praise if they buy this hair cream. We can see the expectations of women presented in this ad, the women are all conventionally attractive, white with small body types. We can also see the indexical animal skin sheet which the man is sat on, this is referring to his success in ‘slaying’ the women. The triadic modal of signs, the representation of the man being worshiped and carried by the women, creates a mental concept of masculine power and control. The patriarchal society of the 1970s allowed the sexualising, demeaning attitudes towards women to be presented even in the media, this lead to a growing number of women desiring equality and freedom of male oppression.
In comparison to the score advert, the maybelline campaign presents male characters, such ad Manny Gutierrez, he is the first male brand ambassador for the make-up brand Maybelline. After decades of limiting makeup ads to women, beauty brands are finally getting the hint that makeup isn’t just for girls; it’s for guys too. This helps fight the battle of toxic masculinity and negative stereotypes for men, removing the barricade between men and femininity. The maybelline campaign links to Judith Butlers ‘gender performance’, it outlines gender fluidity, identity is constantly changing and adapting to the ways of society.
Similar to Butler, David Gauntlet wrote about how gender is fluid and changeable, gender is how you perceive yourself. Gauntlet explains identity in 4 categories, Fluidity of identity, Constructed identity, Negotiated identity and Collective identity. In his investigation into the fluidity of identity, David Gauntlet noted how the representation of gender in the media was beginning to break down the old binary definitions and was now offering a more diverse range of identities. Women, who were simply stereotyped as housewives and passive in the past, were now represented as empowered and assertive. Instead of the physical and combative masculine identity, men could now be seen as sensitive and introspective without any ridicule. Gauntlets theory of fluidity of identity is displayed in both the score and Maybelline ad. In the score ad we are presented with the traditional reactionary form of a man, muscles, adored by women, seen as god like. On the other hand, in ‘That Boss Life’, Manny epitomises this blurring of masculinity and femininity. He wears trousers and a jacket, typical of masculine dress codes, but his verbal and non-verbal codes, such as his final pose to camera, are quite feminine. He has facial hair but he is also confident in his identity to use mascara.
In conclusion, i believe Judith Butlers theory to be true and helpful. It has been proven from both the score and maybelline adverts that gender is a performance, although you are biologically male, you can share characteristics and traits of a female.