What is ISO?

ISO is a sensitivity set by International Organization for Standardization, it is a number measurement of the cameras sensitivity to light.

A low ISO shows a lower sensitivity and a worse ability to take in light and a high ISO shows a higher sensitivity and a higher ability to take in light.

This photo which took from the internet shows a good example between a low and a high ISO and the in-between range.

Here are some photos me and my group took when trying out multiple ISO’s to see the difference between the range.

The first photo is a super low ISO of 100, photo two and three are a in-between range of moderately low and moderately high and the forth photo is the highest ISO of the four and is around ISO 800.

We took our photos in a already dark place, this being underneath a set of stairs with the only light in the area being the light going through the cracks in-between the stairs.

This photo was taken in the schools assembly hall and was taken with a super high ISO which caused the light to ruin the photos balance and over expose it, “ruining” the image.

Shutter Speed And Movement

Shutter speed is the length of time your camera shutter stays open while you capture the image the more light that is allowed in to hit the sensor and the longer the camera shutter stays open the brighter the image is.

Shutter speed is measured in fractions of a second. 1/2000 would be a fast SS whereas 1/30 would be slow. The slower the shutter speed the more light can be accessed as well as the colours making the image more detailed and brighter.

I took some similar images while experimented with different shutter speeds.

I edited this image by cropping it and using sharpness tool on photoshop.

We also experimented with boxing and looked at the motion that was created with that. I then edited these photos on lightroom classic and photoshop.

Original
edited using blur tool and sharpen tool
original
edited using blur tool and sharpen tool

Lightroom

Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, usually called Lightroom, is an image organization and processing application developed by Adobe. 

By pressing “+” next to ” Folder” it allows you to import your images to light room, another option is to press “+” next to ” collections” to add your pictures to a collection. These are great tools to keep your work organized.

When on library mode it allows you to look at your pictures closely and choose if you wat to discard them pressing “X” or flag them pressing “P”. It also allows you to give star ratings from 1 to 5 and colour them in. This Is a really good tool do you can go from hundreds of images to your favourites.

When you select “X” the pictures will turn grey and they will have a black flag with a white cross meaning you don’t want to use them, if you pressed “X” accidently this is easily reversible by just pressing “P”.

Navigator tool:

the navigator tool will allow you to edit your favourite pictures. On the left you will have a tab called ” Presets” this will allow you to edit your pictures quick and easy with filters that are already done for you.

On the right side you have a tab which shows you all the information about your image like ISO, Shutter speed, and focal length. on the column underneath you are able to modificate your image.

Here you can edit everything about your image, like exposure, highlights, shadows etc…

Shutter speed, movement and ISO

Shutter speed is the length of time your camera’s shutter stays open, and therefore how long the sensor is exposed to light. The longer it’s open, the more light hits the sensor and the brighter the image. Shutter speed is one side of the exposure triangle – the three factors that determine the exposure of an image.

Meat yard eliminated the “thing” and looked only for the background, which he would then throw out of focus. Eventually, feeling that the background was still too recognizable, he abandoned this practice and began to contemplate his surroundings through an unfocused lens.

Leiter was fond of using long lenses, partly so that he could remain unobserved, but also so that he could compress space, juxtaposing objects and people in unusual ways. Many of his images use negative space, with large out of focus areas, drawing our eye to a particular detail or splash of colour.

This is my attempt of using different shutter speeds to get a better understanding of how it works

ISO is a number that represents how sensitive your camera sensor is to light. The higher the ISO number, the higher your camera’s sensitivity, and the less light you need to take a picture. The trade-off is that higher ISOs can lead to degraded image quality and cause your photos to be grainy or ‘noisy.

this was me testing out different ISO settings. The ISO setting is a setting on the camera that allows light in to the camera so it makes the photos lighter or darker. ISO represents sensitivity to light as numerical valve

As the ISO goes up in the photos the figure of Hayden gets more visible, I would use a low ISO when I am taking a photograph of something or someone in bright or good lighting, additionally I would use the higher ISO when I am in a darker environment taking photos of something or someone

I can also combine my shutter speed and ISO skills together to get more photos

ISO and Shutter Speed

ISO Sensitivity is a standard set by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) that represents sensitivity to light as a numerical value. A higher number indicates a higher sensitivity and a greater ability to capture light. The ISO Sensitivity is set and changed in the shooting settings menu.

Raw images

Shutter Speed is also a useful tool when it comes to ISO as using a longer shutter speed to allow for more light to enter the camera allowing for the subject to be properly lit without noise or grain in the photo. However this does lead to movement blur


Noise lurks in the shadows, so when you raise the exposure in processing, you actually make the noise more visible throughout your image. That means a photo taken with a lower ISO and underexposed will have MORE grain than an image taken with a higher ISO, but correctly (or even over) exposed.

This is demonstrated here in this photo , as there was less light in the area and therefore a lower ISO was used in order to allow for the subjects to be seen clearer , this led to noise and grain in the image that’s more noticeable when zoomed in.

Demonstrated here is another example of using shutter speed as a replacement for ISO to reduce noise and allow exposure in the photo.

Shutter speed was also used here to increase the brightness in the photo to make the shadow more visible
Despite the bright atmosphere we used a low exposure which is made clear as the quality is grainy rather than clear
To create silhouette we used a higher ISO creating a dim effect and emphasis the shapes of the subject

These were my raw images which i then decided to edit in Lightroom

Reducing the selection

My starting selection consisted of 78 photos
i reduced this collection to 25 images erasing duplicates and less quality photos
i then compared similar photos to identify the better image

ISO

High ISO Pictures

You’d want to use a high ISO when wanting an image that looks ‘noisy’ or ‘grainy’. You’d use it when in a low light situation.

Low ISO Pictures

Artist Research: Edward Weston

One of the most influential American photographers of the 20th century, Edward Weston has had a significant impact on the history of photography. His work was first published in 1906, and his career continued until his death in 1958.

I chose to go into the music studio where there was low light to achieve the results I needed. I then took the same picture in with different ISO’s to see the how it would look.

Shutter speed and Movement

Shutter speed refers to how long the shutter is open for which exposes the sensor to light for more or less time depending of the shutter speed. 1/250 or higher is ideal for shooting action shots when you want the motion to be captured still. The lens can also be opened for seconds at a time – on a standard camera up to 30 seconds. This is ideal for very low light situations where you have a tripod at hand. In the diagram below it is demonstrated how the different shutter speed affects how movement looks in cameras. Sometimes you will want to capture very fast motion as a blur in order to show the speed – to do this you will have to use a lower shutter speed and try to keep the camera still so that only the motion is blurred.


Examples of high shutter speed

These photos are brilliant examples of a very high shutter speed = the way I can tell the shutterspeed is high (probably 1/1000 or higher is because part of the world that is normally moving is now completely stull – a snapshot of reality.

Examples of low shutter speed

On the left is a beautiful example of a very low shutterspeed – they likel had to use a tripod to keep the camera still for an extended period of time – overnight for example. Keeping the camera open and using the B setting allows you to keep the shutter open for as long as you want – exposing the sensor to light for a very long period of time – causing these star trails. On the right is another example of a low shutter speed – the camera was probably open for a quarter of a second (1/4) while the person stood up. This created a blurred motion effect.

A photographer who uses shutter speed to her artistic advantage

Francesca Woodman uses shutter speed to create nostalgic, ghostly self portraits, often using strange positions and a large amount of motion blur, in weird, dirty looking rooms. Her photos have an eerie, sad message, and her photos sadly seem to tell of her fading away before she eventually ended her own life at 23


My Attempt #1

To achieve this effect of the ball floating in the middle of the tree,, I used a fairly high shutter speed – 1/500 this means the sensor was only exposed to light for one five hundredth of a second – freezing the ball. I edited it in post in LrC and cropped the ball so it is on the top left rule of thirds cross point – I also turned down the highlights and added grain and haziness to create a film effect

My Attempt #2

To achieve this effect the camera was moving at the same rate as the subject, so the subject is the only thing in focus while the background has motion blur. In lightroom classic I changed it to black and white, and changed the contrast up a lot, also adding grain. This all together gave the photo a very candid effect.

This is the contact sheet of all the photos we took. Most of the photos of people dodging the camera turned out really unflattering, and the sky wasn’t blue enough for the ball photos to look at all visually pleasing. But out of all of them I got a few I like which are above.


Photoshoot 2 – Studio

During the process of learning Lightroom classic I learnt how to flag images as picks and rejects using SHIFT + P/X to select my favourite images from the bunch. Below are the photos that I flagged as picks.

This photo was quite cool, the subject was waving his hand in front of his face and it caused a ghostly, faceless effect by combining that with a much lower shutterspeed . There is a harsh vignette on the image, which is there coincidentally but I also made it more extreme in post. I added a grain effect and some haziness to create a film effect and enhance the ghostliness.
This image is less ghostly and more playful – not blurred enough to hide the smile on the subjects face. I used a low shutterspeed – 1/4 of a second is how long the shutter was open for. In post I added grain, haziness, and contrast.

ISO

ISO is a standard or light sensitivity set by the International Organisation for Standardisation.

ISO controls how sensitive the cameras sensor is to light; the lower the ISO, the less sensitive and vice versa. However, when you use higher ISO, the photos taken could look grainy or ‘noisy’ and the overall quality would decrease – as shown below

High ISO is only really necessary in very dark settings as it will make the photos brighter, yet it sacrifices the photos quality. Because of this, you should generally try to avoid using an ISO that’s too high, and find other ways to brighten your photos, such as shutter speed.

The photos captured above show the same general subject, however each taken with different ISO, the darker photos are more sharp however clearly are too dark, but the lighter photos are less sharp and too bright – more detail below – , so be sure to find the ISO right for the environment you’re photographing.

This is a larger example of my ISO 100 photo, and as you can see there is no visual noise, the chairs are in sharp focus, although they may be hard to see well due to lack of light.

Aperture and Depth of Field

the aperture controls the amount of light that is entering the lens, like the iris of your eye. This is measured in F-Stops for example F-Stop 22 would be tiny like a pinhole. Depth of Field is basically what is in focus in-front and behind in the image, so if you have a shallow depth of field make the background of the image blurry / not in focus. If the whole image is in focus than the Depth of field is large. This links to Aperture (e.g F-stop 8) as if you use a large aperture than you will have a shallow depth of field. Than if you use a small aperture (e.g F-stop 22) than you will have a large depth of field. From F16-F22 will mean that all the of the image will be in focus.

My Images

these images are from a canon camera simulator, and this was to experiment with how Aperture, ISO and Depth of field effect each other when taking an image.

Ralph Eugene Meatyard

Meatyard was an optician before he took up an interest in photography. He was a member of the Lexington Camera Club which lead him to pursue his interest in photography, Meatyard’s main genre of photography is abstract. With many of his images using motion blur and multiple exposures.

These images are combining abstract photography with portraiture photography whilst including aperture and depth of field.

These photos show how there is the main object in the image in focus at the front of the screen and the rest of the background is more blurred.

Saul Leiter

Leiter started out as a painter and then, found his inspiration of colour photography, his works began in the 1940s. Leiter focused mainly of colour theories but also different perspectives of framing the images, He created abstract compositions of everyday objects. Leiter had large areas of the images out of focus ,which draws your eyes to a particular area or pop of colour.

examples of images by Saul Leiter

Personally, I really like Saul Leiter’s work as I like that the main part of the image is not centred and all the pop of colour is something I personally like and look forward to trying something similar in the future.

My Images

contact sheet

Best Images Edited

I have chosen these images as the best of my aperture and depth of field images, either the background or the main object of the image is in focus or out of focus. Especially these images with the leaves are and interesting way to mix portraiture photography and depth of field.

Aperture and Depth of Field

The aperture controls the amount of light hitting the sensor. It is measured in f-stop and typically ranges from f/1.8 to f/22 (f/1.8 being a very large aperture and f/22 being a very small aperture – imagine a large hole like a bottle top for f/1.8 versus a pinprick for f/22). The depth of field is much higher when more light is let in, so f/1.8 has the shallowest depth of field and therefore more background/foreground blur (depending on focus point). The opposite being a great depth of field at f/16 – f/22 has generally everything in focus. Depth of field and aperture link in directly with each other – aperture is the number you control based on the scene and the effect you want – and the depth of field is what is produced based on that number (also the level of exposure in the image.)

Above is the canon camera simulator this is a low aperture photo I have taken – to use the large aperture which lets lots of light in I had to use a higher shutter speed – (1/250 or higher is typically good for action photography) and a lower ISO. This large aperture creates a narrow depth of field and only the plane and a few marbles are in sharp focus – in my opinion this creates a higher quality effect.

This has a medium aperture which means the image still has a narrow depth of field but the image is not as blurred.

This is a very high aperture photo which means it has a very large depth of field and the whole image is in focus.

(FOCAL LENGTH AND FOCUSING)

Focal length is the length is the distance between the pole of the mirror and the focal point of the mirror. A higher focal length leads to a ‘flatter’ image. 50mm focal length is ideal for portraiture photography because it replicates the human eye and is therefore the most flattering – but a lower photo length leads to a wider image. The focussing ring allows you to change what is in focus in the image. You adjust it until either the whole image is blurred (Uta Barth) or the section you want in focus is sharp. There is also autofocus which is another setting where the camera focus’ on what it in the centre when you half press the shutter button.

PHOTOGRAPHERS WHO USE INTERESTING APERTURE AND MANUAL FOCUS

Uta Barth is a photographer that has a very unique style and generally takes photos of out of focus scenes. It is very abstract. She clearly uses the focus ring to force the camera out of focus which creates a cool effect. She is a contemporary German-American photographer who explores optical illusions, visual perception and non-place. She emerged in the late 1980s and brought light to the viewers visual attention within the photography frame. She takes photos of surreal landscapes and roads, in a deliberately blurred, dreamy way. Her works are exhibited internationally for their unique style and aesthetic look.

Ralph Eugene Meatyard is a photographer that has a similar style of work to Uta Barth but this set of images called “Zen Twigs” he made sure to keep one twig in focus in the foreground. This creates a sense that the branch is the most important thing in the image and creates a cool effect.

Saul Leiter was a photographer who was formerly an artist and then discovered photography. He uses lots of unusual framing devices in his images like windows and signs to draw our eyes to a large section of blur and draw our eyes to a splash of colour.

MY PHOTOSHOOT

This photo is a cool use of aperture, and I used the lowest possible one on my camera – f/2.8. The background has a very substantial amount of blur and it demonstrates how a shallow depth of field can make an image much higher quality.
f/2.8. This photo uses a different effect using aperture – it still has a shallow depth of field but there is an object in the foreground that is blurred.
f/5.6. This photo has a higher aperture so it allows the majority of the image to be in focus with a much wider depth of field.

Overall, aperture is a very important part of making a photo look good – and knowing how to use it is key to the photographic process.