For my homework photoshoot on texture, I decided to photograph a wide variety of fruit and experiment with their different textures to create a range of unique, interesting images. By taking straight-on, zoomed in images I was able to successfully focus on the texture whilst also adjusting the fruits to make each image different and eye-catching.

Overall, some photos were underexposed whilst I was trying to adjust the settings manually to cope with the room’s artificial lighting but for the majority of the photos I feel I successfully captured effective images focusing and highlighting the unique textures of each individual fruit.

Some of my best photos:

The raw photos shown above I believe have captured texture very effectively, occasionally using a soft focus to highlight certain textures as well as most textures being in the foreground combined with a low aperture to make the textures stand out even further as the image’s main focal point.

Final fruit photos:

Above is a triptych of my final fruit texture photos. I have cropped these to direct the photo’s attention more towards each fruit’s texture and made them black and white to remove colour and further highlight each fruit’s texture – furthermore, I have laid these out in a row of 3 to clearly show the difference in texture of every fruit, and by increasing details in Photoshop I was also able to make the intricate details stand out further, creating a final mini collection of photos I am completely satisfied with.

What is ISO?

ISO (International Organisation for Standardisation) is a number you can change on your camera which adjusts how sensitive your camera sensor is to light.

How does changing ISO affect images?

A lower ISO value means there is less sensitivity to light, so you will need more light to take a good photo, whereas a higher ISO value increases sensitivity to light meaning less light is needed for a photo. However, if ISO is set too high, visual noise can start being introduced into the image which is a grainy effect that if unintentional can lower the quality and effectiveness of your photo.

Despite this drawback, higher ISO values are still useful for taking photos where there are low levels of light. If you have ideal lighting conditions, your ISO number should be kept low to avoid introducing visual noise into your photographs. Unlike aperture and shutter speed, ISO is adjusted by pressing the ISO button and then selecting your desired number.

My ISO photos:

For my photoshoot, I took pictures of the same subjects while adjusting the shutter speed and ISO numbers to explore how they affect images.

Below are two images of a scrunched up paper ball, both taken at the same shutter speed but with different ISO numbers.

The first photo is significantly darker than the second because the ISO number is extremely low, which has reduced light sensitivity and caused a darker image. The second photo is much brighter due to a higher ISO number which has increased light sensitivity, as well as beginning to introduce visual noise into the image.

When taking photos, you need to adjust shutter speed, aperture and ISO all together to ensure the lighting is optimal for the effect you are trying to achieve. Fast shutter speeds which let in less light alongside low ISO levels to decrease light sensitivity can cause extremely dark photos, such as the one below.

If you over-adjust one aspect while not adjusting another, you can fix the lighting problem but introduce other issues into your photos. For example, in the image below, the shutter speed is still fast (1/100 sec) but the ISO has increased drastically to 6400, which has improved the lighting significantly but also introduced visual noise which has affect the quality of the image.

However, with the right amount of adjustment for each aspect (aperture, shutter speed and ISO), you can achieve your desired lighting without harming the image too much in other ways such as visual noise.

Conclusion:

Aperture, shutter speed and ISO all affect the brightness of your image so it is important to adjust each one to make sure your photos are your desired brightness whilst minimising other consequences like visual noise. For example, if you use a low ISO number, you might want to compensate by using a slower shutter speed and larger aperture to achieve optimal lighting.

Purpose of Lightroom

Lightroom is typically used for selection, rating and editing of many images, contrary to Photoshop which is typically only used for high levels of editing on one or few images. After a photoshoot, you could use Lightroom to organise your photos into a collection and rate them based off numerous factors (e.g. what you photographed, quality of photograph) to pinpoint your best photos, after which you can edit them all at once on Lightroom and/or select the best few to edit thoroughly using Photoshop.

Creation of Catalogues

When I first opened Lightroom, I had to create a personal catalogue – I named this catalogue my name and saved it in the video data drive.

Importing Images

I then had to import some of my images into Lightroom, using the import button on the bottom left of the interface.

Once I selected import, I then had to choose a path to import my images from, which in my case was from the media drive.

Once I had selected this path, all my images appeared and I could choose which ones to import into Lightroom.

Creation of Collections

Next, I made a collection specifically for my shutter speed photography. To do this, I clicked the plus sign next to collections to create a new collection, titled it Shutter Speed and dragged and dropped the images I had imported into this collection.

By doing this, I can sort my large gallery of photographs into smaller groups, for example instead of having all my photographs in one area making it hard to differentiate and identify them I can split them into unique collections (e.g. a collection for aperture, another for shutter speed etc.)

Selection Functions

I then had the option to select and rate my images in different ways – one thing you can do is flag your images as good or bad using either the P key (for good) or the X key (for bad), allowing you to then filter out which images you want to see using the flagged filter which removes the images you marked as bad from view. You can also rate your pictures from 1-5 stars and then filter them by these star ratings.

Develop Mode

After learning how to import images, create collections and rate/filter images in library mode I then learnt how to use develop mode. This mode is used when you need to do major editing on one particular image (similar to Photoshop), unlike library mode which can be used to make small quick adjustments to multiple images.

At the bottom, there is a before and after view option which I could use to compare my edited image to its original version and identify strengths and weaknesses of both images, then make further adjustments if needed.

Develop mode has many presets which can be used to make quick edits of your images (an example is above where I have used the black and white PB02 preset), or you can make lots of adjustments manually to really transform the image into a successful one you like. I spent a while using the manual developing features, and then produced an edited version of my image which I am satisfied with.

Contact Sheets

A contact sheet is like a photo gallery of all your raw (unedited) images – using a contact sheet, you can colour code and organise your images to highlight the successful/unsuccessful ones as well as grouping your images to show the intention and thought process behind your work.

William Klein

William Klein was a photographer well known for his unique contact sheets where he drew over and colour coded images to identify and group them, showing his thought process behind his pictures and clearly identifying what he considered his strongest work. This unique, almost artistic approach to contact sheets and photographer was ultimately what made him stand out and be unique compared to other photographers of his time.

What is Shutter Speed?

Shutter speed refers to the duration for which the camera’s shutter remains open, determining the period during which the sensor is exposed to light. A longer exposure time allows more light to reach the sensor, resulting in a brighter image – controlling and adapting shutter speed is crucial for capturing either sharp images of moving things or exploring creative blurring in moving objects.

Examples of Slow Shutter Speed Images:

Using a slower shutter speed means more light hits the camera due to the shutter being open for longer, which can create these motion blurs when photographing fast movement (such as cars). These blurs can be intentional, but if unintentional the shutter speed should be increased to remove them. In these two examples a slow shutter speed was used when photographing cars which led to these blurs, making it seem like the cars are driving past at extremely high speeds.

Examples of Fast Shutter Speed Images:

Faster shutter speeds mean the shutter is open for smaller amounts of time which consequently limits the amount of light that can hit the camera – this reduces blurs and increases sharpness of an image, which is good for capturing sharp images of movement (such as athletes running). In these two examples a fast shutter speed was used to take sharp images of fast movement, such as the bird’s wings flapping or the shattered glass flying in all directions.

Key Figures of Fast Shutter Speed – Muybridge and Edgerton

Eadweard Muybridge is known for his groundbreaking photographic investigations into motion, which significantly contributed to the development and rise of cinema. He was commissioned to capture the movement of a horse in order to demonstrate that a horse’s hooves are elevated from the ground during a trot.

Muybridge is also famous for his work in chronophotography, where he studied how animals move from 1878 to 1886. He used several cameras to take pictures of animals at different stages of their movement. He also created the zoopraxiscope, a machine that projected painted moving images from glass discs, which came before the flexible film strips we use in movies today.

Harold Eugene Edgerton (April 6, 1903 – January 4, 1990) was an American scientist and researcher who taught electrical engineering at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. He is well-known for turning the stroboscope from a little-known lab tool into a widely used device. Additionally, he played a significant role in creating sonar technology and deep-sea photography. His inventions were used alongside Jacques Cousteau in efforts to find shipwrecks and even the Loch Ness Monster.

Key Figures of Slow Shutter Speed – Sugimoto and Woodman

Marcel Duchamp, a key figure in early 20th-century Cubism and Dadaism, had a significant impact on Sugimoto’s ideas about art and the concept of time. Sugimoto frequently uses large format cameras and long exposure techniques to photograph light as it acts in predictable yet controlled manners.

Francesca Woodman’s family would spend their summers at their farmhouse in the countryside close to Florence, Italy, where she took many of her photographs. The rich European culture and art greatly influenced her artistic growth. You can see the impact of surrealist artists like Man Ray and Claude Cahun in her work, especially in the themes and style she chose. She honed her ideas and skills while studying at the Rhode Island School of Design; her role as an innovator is really important, especially in the 1970s when photography was often seen as less valuable than painting and sculpture. She paved the way for future American artists, like Cindy Sherman and Nan Goldin, who used photography to delve into themes of identity.

My Shutter Speed Photoshoot, 24/09/24

Above is a photo I took inspired by Francesca Woodman – I have used a slow shutter speed on a passing car to achieve the ghostly and abstract atmosphere of her work, where the car is hardly recognisable and just a blur. I then edited it in Photoshop to make it black and white similar to Woodman’s work, and corrected the photo as it was slightly overexposed.

This is a similar photo I took, however I think this one wasn’t as great since you can still clearly recognise it is a car, so I think it hasn’t successfully captured the abstract feeling of Woodman’s work. I also didn’t have the camera mounted on a tripod in this photo which resulting in a lot of unintentional motion blur in the surroundings.

Class Photoshoot

Above are a few most successful images from the class photoshoot, using a low shutter speed to create an abstract and almost ghostly image (edited in Photoshop by me to be black and white). These are the four most successful pictures in my opinion since none of them were too over/underexposed and each one intentionally used a long exposure time to successfully capture the abstract atmosphere of images by photographers such as Francesca Woodman.

Aperture and Depth of Field

Aperture (measured in f/stop) controls the size of the lens opening that allows light into your camera. You can blur the foreground and background that bracket your subject (known as shallow depth of field) by opening up the aperture with a low f-stop number; alternatively, you can keep your photo sharp from the foreground through to the background (known as wide depth of field) by closing the aperture down with a high f-stop number. Depth of field is defined as being the distance between the nearest and the furthest objects giving a focused image – a small depth of field comes with a lower aperture value, and leads to very little being in focus whereas a larger depth of field comes with higher aperture values and makes more of an image be in focus.

Focal Length

Focal length (usually measured in mm) is defined as being the optical distance from the centre of a lens and its focus. This determines what you see when using the camera, for example a shorter focal length captures more due to a wider angle.

Auto vs Manual Focus

Auto focus is typically general use due to its simplicity, whereas manual focus is used more when close ups and fine detail are needed in an image. When using manual focus, you should use the focus ring on the end of the lens and adjust for each shot as necessary.

Example photos using aperture:

Aperture of 2.8:

In this photograph, the toy plane is noticeably much more in focus compared to other objects in the background, highlighting it as the main subject of the image. This low aperture creates a very shallow depth of field, creating this low focus effect on the background.

Aperture of 5.6:

When compared to the previous image, this one is very similar in terms of the plane still clearly standing out as the subject/main focus – however, a slightly higher aperture value has enlarged the depth of field which consequently has made the other objects captured in frame more in focus.

Aperture of 11:

As the aperture value continues to increase, the depth of field clearly becomes larger which as a result makes even more of the objects captured be in focus. Due to the depth of field not highlighting one particular aspect of this image, there is no singular main focus which implies everything captured in this image is of equal importance.

Aperture of 22:

Finally, with a very high aperture value, the depth of field is very large leading to every object being completely in focus which further emphasises the effect of equal importance first noticed at an aperture value of 22. Blurs are also minimised, which can be useful for capturing images where you want everything to be in focus (such as landscapes, nature etc.)

Artist Research: Uta Barth

Over the last twenty years, Uta Barth has focused her art on how we perceive visuals. Known for her “empty” images that focus on painterly abstraction, she skillfully creates blurred backgrounds, cropped compositions, and plays with natural light to seize those quick, almost unnoticed moments that usually linger at the edges of our vision. By intentionally stepping away from traditional photography and the typical use of a camera, Barth’s work thoughtfully breaks down the norms of visual representation, highlighting the boundaries of what we can actually see.

Some of my work, inspired by Barth:

To achieve the soft focus effect Barth uses, I used a low aperture value as well as manual focus. However, I feel like this wasn’t very successful at capturing the abstract nature of Barth’s work since my image’s focus was slightly too sharp to achieve this – furthermore, I believe the scene I have captured was a poor choice for trying to achieve an abstract effect due to a large variety of things present in the image (chairs, blank walls, door with a light that clearly stands out). To improve next time, I will adjust the f/stop value to be even lower to really try and strive for a shallow depth of field and I will photograph a less vibrant scene with less objects and things to look at to maximise the chances of me capturing the abstract effect used by Barth.

Above is the same image but edited using Photoshop – I found the original image to be too vibrant and colourful to qualify as abstract, so I toned down the saturation to better achieve an abstract effect. Furthermore, I cropped out most of the image to reduce the amount of things present to try work towards more of an abstract effect; overall, I think I could definitely do better if I had adjusted my aperture values properly to achieve a low focus effect.

My work compared to Barth’s:

My work against a picture taken by Uta Barth. My work is clearly not very abstract since the objects captured can be clearly identified and the colours are vibrant which makes the scene even less abstract; in comparison, Barth’s image uses softer colours which blend together naturally as well as a much shallower depth of field, successfully creating an abstract effect.

Camera Obscura

Nicephore Niepce

Henry Fox Talbot

Daguerreotype

Richard Maddox

George Eastman

Kodak (Brownie)

Digital Photography

Artist Research – Henry Mullins