Auto Focus VS Manual Focus

Auto focus is the function in a camera that allows the camera to automatically focus on a subject whilst manual focus is the function in a camera that allows the photographer to adjust the focus manually, instead of the camera. Manual focus is useful for many reasons such as having more control on the image composition. This allows the photographer to have control and freedom to choose the preferred focal point. Additionally, manual light works well in low light situations unlike auto focus. This is because it is difficult for auto lenses to keep focus on the subject in little lighting and a shallow depth of field.

Ralph Eugene Meatyard

Ralph was an optician who practiced photography. Ralph spent three months looking through an unfocused camera in order to learn to see ‘no focus’. He began this project due to his attraction to the out-of-focus backgrounds in some of his…

One of ralphs photoshoots know as ‘zen-twigs’ had a strong focus on experimenting the focus on branches and twigs. He achieved this by using a very large aperture, creating the background subjects to be blurred and the branches to be the main focus.

The focal length tells us the angle of view determining how much of the scene will be captured as well as the magnification. It is the optical distance from the point where the light meets inside the lens to the cameras sensor and is usually measures in mm.

Lenses that have a shorter focal length will have a larger depth of field.

55mm

35mm

24mm

55mm

35mm

24mm

18mm

All of these photos were taken in the exact same position with a tripod, making the only difference in these photos the focal length. 55mm was the longest focal length available on the camera. As you can see from the photos the pictures taken with the focal length of 55mm more of the scene was captured showing jasmine and all of the background. As the focal length gets shorter such as 18mm there was less of the scene captured making jasmine the main subject with less background.

we did a experiment using different paper shapes, lighting and iso

This photo has a high iso we used a spotlight to add more light to the photo to make it stand out more we used a pretty low iso to darken the background to make our paper shape more vibrant.

I like this photo because the shadow in the back makes the photo stand out more and it adds more detail to a small detailed image.

this photo i also used a lower ISO and we added red tint paper but we only put it halfway through the spotlight and it made the actual paper that was photographed red and then it made the shadow of the paper normal light colour

by using light room i edited the original photo. and made it darker and added a lower exposure and higher colour temperature witch then added a blue colour (cold colour) instead of the original white colour by doing this it adds more detail to the normal photo that was half red half white because we covered half the camera with red tint paper

this is the last photo I chose, I used low ISO setting I used an artificial light to highlight the subject in the photo which is the paper origami, additionally I edited the photo a bit to make the shadows more clear. I cropped the photo to leave out the black space from the photo and zoom in on the subject.

Christiane Feser

Christiane Feser creates three-dimensional photographic based work. They are photographs of complex assemblages of repeated forms and shadows with actual elements from the assemblage projecting three-dimensionally from the surface of the photograph. Feser flattens a sculptural object through the act of photography and then reconstitutes that dimension in a new way by turning the photograph into a relief sculpture. The works challenge our perception of dimension and perspective as well as our assumptions about what a photograph is. They also introduce a tension between the past and present: the original photograph is of a thing that has existed, but it has been transformed into a new object that now exists. And in this new form, the constant change of light and shadow across the relief surface will continue to keep the work in the present moment. The works are therefore about both photography and sculpture. They are simultaneously images and objects that play with flatness and depth, and engage with the histories of the photograph as a physical thing in space.

this is one of the photos that she took and that is in one of her museums in America

I began by transferring my shutter speed images into Lightroom, as you can see below, where I pressed ‘import’ at the very bottom and picked which images to upload into Lightroom.

After moving my images, I learnt how to flag the photos I wanted to keep, and leave the others blank that I decided I wasn’t going to use. I also discovered how to rate my images by using stars (1 being the worst and 5 being g the best) to show which ones I liked the most.

Here’s an overall view of both the flags and ratings:

Then I discovered how to colour code my images to make them more noticble and easier to detect when I edit my images in photoshop so I know which ones to edit.

I started off with an image then right clicked it as you can see below, then I clicked on ‘code rating’ so I have the option to colour them ‘red’ ‘yellow’ or ‘green’, they also have blue and purple as an option, but I decided to stick to these three as it is easier to organise.

Once I did a few, I decided to show what it looks like and as you can see below, it is easier to see which ones are good and which aren’t.

I also wanted to experiment and see what I could do, so here’s a before and after of this image where I cropped it, and adjusted the ‘temp’ and ‘tint’ to brighten and exaggerate my image to make the slow shutter speed more noticable.

You can find the ‘temp’ and ‘tint’ by looking on the far right ride of the screen when you are on the image, and you should see this image below:

For my homework I decided to use my house as my textural theme. I was able to find items with lots of texture which was good as it made the shadows look crisp.

For one of my images I took inspiration from Guy Bourdin. Bourdin was a French artist and photographer he was well known for his highly stylized and provocative images. From 1955, Bourdin worked mostly with Vogue as well as other publications including Harper’s Bazaar. He shot ad campaigns for Chanel, Charles Jourdan, Pentax and Bloomingdale’s.

My Contact Sheet

jh

I added my images on Lightroom to see how they looks on a computer screen. Through this I then starred which photos I preferred, this helped me decide what photos to flag/reject and what photos to edit. However, most photos didn’t have enough texture or they looked too blurry, so this helped choosing.

This allowed me to choose my final images to edit.

Original Photos:

Edited Photos:

Technical:

I used the flash to take the photos as the lighting that day wasn’t the best this meant I used artificial lighting to achieve all my images. For the first image I took the picture head on meaning the flash was just straight on the item, this created less shadows and more reflection. However, with the second image I took it more on an angle which gave it more shadows and more depth. The two last images were also taken head on which meant there wasn’t a lot of shadows just more light. I used a fast shutter speed to take the images so the photos wouldn’t end up blurry and the texture would be crisp.

Visual:

I used a range of colourful and shaped items to show the different textures on each item. Tone was used in the second image to show the contrast of the wood and the shadows. The white juxtaposes with the dark shadows giving the image a sleek look. I showed a range of textures through all four images this gave me a good variety to edit. Most lines were curved as that gave the best shadows or pattern like image 1 and 2. This is good because it made the image look more interesting and more unique.

Contextual:

I wanted to use my house as the topic of this photoshoot as I thought it showed the best texture. This also allowed me to follow an artists image in my own way by using an object that looked most to the concept. I chose to take the images in the late afternoon to use the artificial light instead of the natural light this was because I was able to use the flash and create deeper shadows.

I created a virtual gallery to show off the pictures I thought were the best. This also allowed me to arrange them how I would like and choose different borders for each image, interchanging the black and white frames. I chose images with different lighting and texture to show my range of skills, I made sure to put three images of each subject: paperballs and ripped ripped paper. I also made two perspectives to show the different colours and how lighting can affect how the shadows can look.

Overall, I think I interpreted the paper balls theme well as i showed texture and a range of different backgrounds which allowed me to use different ISO’s and shutter speed. However, I wish I used different lighting instead of white or red as it would of been good to see other colours and how the shadows would be.

Bill Mangold

FORMAL ELEMENTS

Photography is composed of several basic elements; Line, Shape, Pattern, Tone, Texture, Space and Colour. These elements are key to producing meaningful and interesting photos with proper composition and editing.

LINE

Lines in photography are a very important element, proper use of leading lines guide the eye around the image, often placing emphasis on the subject matter, creating depth through perspective or conveying a sense of movement.

SHAPE

Different shapes in photography can portray different atmospheres, for example; organic, rounded shapes or curved lines may imply a calming or peaceful atmosphere, while the rigid, sharp angles and edges of rectangular shapes might seem aggressive or pronounced.

PATTERN

Pattern photography utilizes elements that are repeated, and the repetition of other visual elements can create interesting images. Some photographers also use patterns as the main subject of an image (shown above).

TONE

Tone refers to the levels of brightness in the photograph, from solid black to pure white. Shadows are dark tones; highlights are bright tones. The majority of nature photographs display a wide range of tones, from black or near black to white or near white.

TEXTURE

Capturing texture in a photograph can add visual interest, highlight unique patterns, or even evoke emotions. Texture photography overlaps with many kinds of photography, including everything from fine art to classic portraiture.

SPACE

The element of adding visual space in your photography implies that an object is moving, looking or pointing to imply motion and direction and to lead the eye of the viewer to a specific point.

COLOUR

We use colour in photography to create visual contrast, direct attention or even evoke mood. Of all the Elements, colour is perhaps the most complex, but also, often has the most immediate impact. Colour can impact our viewers’ emotional response to an image.

After taking some photos I decided to put them in Lightroom and see what I could do with the.

With this photo I shifted the perspective off it by using the transform feature in Lightroom.

I used the colour grading wheel to shift the original colour of the image completely, I chose random colours that went well together to create a weird abstract feel in the photos and because I chose bright and vibrant colours which gave the photo a happy vibe to it, I also put grain on the photo because I find it aesthetically pleasing and enjoy the retro look it gives the photos.

This photo is a portrait of me

Yet again I decided to put random colours on it and added grain to change the texture of the photo giving it a vintage feel, I also cropped out all the unneeded background space to make me the main subject of the photo.

We took this photo of me walking with a very scenic background.

When editing this photo I made the midpoint dark blue, which gave the photo a cold feeling to it.

A visual element is any characteristic that we can see. This includes:

Line: Lines are the foundation of pictures. There are a vary of different lines including curved lines, horizontal lines, vertical lines or even jagged lines. Lines can express different qualities of an object/picture such as a curved line suggesting comfort and ease or thin lines expressing delicacy.

Shape: Shapes come in a variety of ways. Shapes can be 3D, 2D, natural or man made, flat, regular or irregular. Shapes establish a focal point. They can be used to control feelings within the composition within a shape.

Space: Space is the area in, around and between objects. Space can be useful to emphasize the subject.

Repetition: Repetition communicates a sense of rhythm, balance, contrast and harmony. This includes patterns, shapes and colours.

Colour: colour has the strongest effect on our emotions as this creates the mood/ atmosphere of a photograph. It draws attention to the photo.

Texture: Texture is the surface quality such as the roughness or smoothness of the material. This adds interesting features within the object and picture.

Value/Tone: Tone is the lightness or darkness of a colour. tone can be used in many ways like to create a contrast of light and dark, a dramatic atmosphere or a sense of depth and distance

I imported a selection of photos I took of paper texture onto adobe Lightroom. I the went through the photos and narrowed my selection to the ones I thought were the best.

For this experiment I scrunched up a piece of paper into a ball to make a boring plain piece of paper into a creative shape that includes irregular patterns and repetitions of lines and shadows. In the process of taking this photo I used artificial light in order to intensify the shadows within the scrunched up paper ball. Before editing this photo it was white with average shadows so in order to develop this photo further I intensified the saturation, vibrancy, temperature, tint and shadows which gave the paper a purple tint and deepen the shadows within the piece of paper to make this photo more interesting. The purpose of this exercise was to explore both the visual elements but also the key functions of the camera and the lighting system.

For taking this photo I As the exposure is 0 it shows that this photo is balanced.

Instead of editing colour into this photo, I made it black and white to make tones and shadows the main subject of this photo. There are many different tones within the lines and crevices of the piece of paper, some light tones and some darker tones adding depth and help define this shape.