Chiaroscuro lighting is a high-contrast lighting technique that utilises a low-key lighting setup to achieve contrast between the model and the dark background. Photographers use chiaroscuro lighting to highlight the model and create depth to the background.

Chiaroscuro is lighting used with portrait pictures to create a split of light and shadow. ( Italian for “lightdark”) and is defined as a bold contrast between light and dark. A certain amount of chiaroscuro is the effect of light modelling in painting where 3-dimensional volume is suggested by highlights and shadows. It first appeared in 15th century painting in Italy and Flanders, but true chiaroscuro developed during the 16th century, in Mannerism and it baroque art.

As you can see in the image above, to achieve the chiaroscuro lighting the subject needs to be facing straight in front of the camera and there needs to be a fill light on the right of the subject and a key-light to the right of the subject.

Studio lighting consists of 2 main categories. Continuous and Flashlight. Continuous is light that’s on all the time never flashing. These types of studio lights are similar to a house lamp. Turn the switch on and the light comes on. Turn it off and the light goes off.

Flashlight light is a sudden bright artificial light used when taking photographic pictures. They have umbrellas, or a softbox can be attached to diffuse the light.

Other objects and tools you can use are reflectors. A reflector is a photography tool used to redirect light to a subject or scene. It doesn’t create light; rather, it redirects light that is already there.

Hard light is harsh and creates strong shadows, while soft light is more diffused and creates softer shadows. Photographers would use hard light to create dramatic effect with lots of contrast. It’s more natural-looking and makes your subject appear warm, welcoming, and friendly. A lot of wedding pictures would use soft light!

High Key: Very important when taking photos because High Key is a style of photography that uses unusually bright lighting to reduce or completely blow out dark shadows in the image. Upbeat and positive photos are made from using high key.

Low Key: Low-key lighting has greater contrast between the dark and light areas of the image with a majority of the scene in shadow.

Henry Mullins moved to Jersey from London to take commercial portraits of over 9,000 islanders from 1852 to 1873. He compiled copies of these portraits into 4 large albums currently kept in the Societe Jeriase Photo-Archive.

Henry Mullins opened a studio named the ‘Royal Saloon’ at 7 Royal Square. Here he would photograph middle-class subjects under Queen Victoria’s rein. Commercial photography was still incredibly new and costed £1 per image. This price meant that portraiture was no longer limited to wealthy upper-class individuals. His subjects included the elite: the Bailiff, Lt Governor, Jurats and Deputies but also bankers, doctors and Clergies.

The commercialisation of photography

Carte de Visite was a small photograph originating rom France in 1854. This was not the first permanent photograph or commercial photography process (Daguerrotype came first. It was the process of printing onto a fragile copper plate created in 1839.) but was the first small, portable type. These images were 6x9cm and would be sent like postcards between friends and sparked interest in creating albums. Carte de Visite used Albumen Print where the images were binded using egg whites. This technique used negatives which made allowed for reproductions. This was the technique used by Henry Mullins where he even advertised his studio as being cheaper than London.

Henry Mullins

Henry Mullins adventured with different styles of portrait. He would use diamond cameo, four ovals showing a face at different angles, as a unique presentation. He would cut out the ovals and arrange them into a diamond shape. Additionally he would bleach the edges to whiten the background and fade them into the page. Both of these styles would frame a headshot unlike the usual portraits which were full body in front of a intricately decorated background.

An Inspiration

Henry Mullins has inspired many other photographers including Michelle Sank who travelled to jersey to photograph people in a similar way. There are many similarities between the portraits but also many differences.

Comparing the two

In this Portrait Michelle Sank photographed Ian Gorst, the chief minister. It would have been impossible for Henry Mullins to photograph Jerseys Cheif Minister since the first one was only elected in 2005, however he did photograph many of the islands elite.

Composition

I decided to compare these two images because they both show a man dressed in a suit angled straight on. Both of the subjects are resting their right hand some furniture to create an interesting pose and are stood upsright.

Michelle Sank was able to take her photographs in colour due to the advancements of digital photography. This photograph is also taken to landscape to showcase the background unlike a traditional portrait. The background is a dull 2000s office with the whole thing in focus. This image uses the natural light from the window as the main source of light and frames the subject slightly off centre. These features together separate this image from a traditional portrait and instead file it under the umbrella of ‘modern art’ instead.

Henry Mullins took his photograph in his studio using slightly harsher light. The image has been taken in portrait to frame the subjects full body. However unlike Michelle Sanks portrait, Henry Mullins bleached out the background and the bottom of the mans body to frame and draw attention to the subject, a technique called vignette. Since this was early in the development of photography, it was used as a means of documentation instead of an art form. Bleaching out the background was a way to highlight the individual in their portrait. Having a full background could make the frame too busy which is why when Henry Mullins does use backgrounds its a way to put a person into an environment or to create unique shapes.

Clothing

This portrait shows a modern man in modern dress. Like Henry Mullins, the subject wearing what he would normally be wearing to work, only this was taken 100+ years later showing a stark difference in silhouette, fabric and colour. Both here and in inspirational photographs show the subjects in typical suits of the period. A modern suit is created with cut corners due to the nature of them being mass produced. The fabrics are thinner and cheaper to produce leading to less flattering draping, shaping overall quality. There is no care put into their production which comes through when buying, wearing and being photographed.

The modern suit can have as few as 2 main layers: Shirt and blazer. A Victorian suit however needed to cover everything and a shirt had only really recently stopped being seen a part of underwear. The suit had began showing signs in Britain while under the rein of Charles II however only became recognisable in the late Stuart era. The Vicorians are well known for their modesty which meant formal attire for men required a minimum of 3 layers but was typically accompanied by a coat also. Typically the sets were created with bold colours and patterns as well as rich embroidery and detailing to showcase wealth (which would be important in a portrait being sent to friends for example).

These sets were made with thicker, organic materials and were still being handmade which meant it was tailored with more flattering seams and unique shapes. Unlike a modern suit with only one back seam at times, the Victorian suits could have 3. This would allow for a form fitting jacket, movement and a unique silhouette which wouldn’t be possible with just one back seam. These differences are evident when comparing photographs. In Henry Mullins’s photographs, the fabrics show depth in folds, texture and shape leading them to photograph much better.

Michelle Sanks portrait above shows a rigid, square and ill fitting suit. I believe this is a good comparison between the portraits because it is (apart from the colour) the first visual sign of a difference in time period I caught onto. This demonstrates how photography creates perfectly preserved time capsules. The modern suit is quickly identifiable due to its familiarity now and in years time fabrics and shapes. A Victorian suit isn’t what we’re used to or would see on a daily basis so it is unfamiliar despite still being a suit. When putting these two images next to each other it shows

Since the above Image is low resolution here is a good example of the quality difference. This is another portrait taken by Henry Mullins however this time of Victor Hugo, a French writer.

Juxtaposition

Juxtaposition is when two opposites are placed next to each other with contrasting effect.

Placing these two images next to each other showcases not only the advancements in photography and production but also society.

Headshots

This photoshoot is a response to Henry Mullins where I will be experimenting with a new camera lens (105mm) and diamond cameo.

Photoshoot 1

I began choosing sets of 4 images to use for a diamond cameo. To edit the images I set them all in black and white and adjusted the settings until I was happy with the effects. They don’t all have the same background since I was moving around the backlight for different lighting effects. This wont be as much of an issue when I edit the portraits into a diamond cameo however when all the images are being presented as is it ruins the continuity.

Set 1

Set 2

Diamond Cameo

I wanted to try out two different styles when I created the diamond cameo arrangements. I wanted one where I used some old paper as a background and coloured the portraits in beige to create an aged look similar to Henry Mullins. I then wanted to try a second one where I used a different background and didn’t recolour the portraits.

For this first one I added each Image onto the background and created an oval shape. This oval shape needed to be same for each of the four portraits so I copied the shape 4 times and rearranged them into the diamond shape. I then added the portraits over the top of the shapes and created a clipping mask so they’d be the correct shape.

The only difference in this was when I recoloured the portraits. To recolour the black and white portraits I selected the colour overlay and changed it to a brown to match the background. This one was made in portrait as opposed to landscape like the first. This made the circles more round which didn’t look like Henry Mullins examples.

Photoshoot- Edits

The photographs that are highlighted green are the photos I have chosen to edit, because they have the best poses and composition. They also display the different types of lighting the most effectively and well, so it is easy to tell which lighting was used for each of these photographs.

Rembrandt

Rembrandt lighting usually displays a triangle on the cheek under one of the eyes. This is how we can tell it is Rembrandt lighting. The set up of Rembrandt lighting, that we used in the studio is below;

The light was on the right hand side of the camera on a 45 degree angle, onto the model. The light is also roughly 2 feet higher than the model and positioned to point slightly down. The reflector was then used to reflect that light into the eyes of the model to make them brighter and more visible in the photo. The reflector is positioned either under the model on an angle, or to the side of the model on an angle. The camera is then positioned directly in front of the model.

Edits

I edited this photo to make it brighter, so the model would stand out more. I did this by increasing the exposure, contrast, highlights, whites, texture and dehaze, while decreasing the shadows, blacks and clarity. I also then made a copy of the edited photo, which I edited again to make it black and white. I also used a brightening tool on Lightroom to brighten up the models eyes and used a correction tool on Lightroom to get rid of any blemishes on the models skin, hair etc.

I then took another photo of the model, but experimented with the background, and tried out a black background.

I edited this photograph to make the model brighter and exposure higher, so the model would be more visible and the viewpoint of this photograph. I edited this by increasing the exposure, contrast, highlights, whites, texture and clarity, while decreasing the shadows and blacks. I then also made of copy of the edited photograph and edited it again to create a black and white version. I also used a brightening tool on Lightroom to brighten up the models eyes and used a correction tool on Lightroom to get rid of any blemishes on the models skin, hair etc.

I then started to experiment with different poses, using hands, arms, legs, or body movement. In the photograph below I ask the model to turn to sit facing the side and to hug her legs and then look at the camera.

I edited this photograph to make it brighter, and to create more of a light contrast on the models face. I did this by increasing the exposure, contrast, highlights, whites, texture and clarity, while decreasing the shadows and blacks. I then made a copy of the edited photograph and edited it again, to create a black and white version. I also used a brightening tool on Lightroom to brighten up the models eyes and used a correction tool on Lightroom to get rid of any blemishes on the models skin, hair etc.

I then asked the model to sit facing away from the camera and turning around over her shoulder to look at the camera.

I edited this photo to make it brighter, so the all the models features were visible. I did this by increasing the exposure, contrast, highlights, whites, vibrancy and saturation, while decreasing the blacks and shadows. I then made a copy, to create a black and white version. I also used a brightening tool on Lightroom to brighten up the models eyes and used a correction tool on Lightroom to get rid of any blemishes on the models skin, hair etc.

I then experimented with different backgrounds and used a black background, instead of a white background.

I edited this photo, to make it brighter and give it higher exposure, so the model was more visible against the darker background. I did this by increasing the exposure, contrast, highlights and whites, while decreasing the blacks and shadows. I then also made a black and white copy. I also used a brightening tool on Lightroom to brighten up the models eyes and used a correction tool on Lightroom to get rid of any blemishes on the models skin, hair etc.

I then experimented with the space around the model, by making the model much closer and bigger, with less space around her.

I also made a black and white copy of the edited photograph.

For all my Rembrandt photos the camera settings were:

Shutter speed: f/14

Aperture: 1/80 seconds

ISO: ISO-100

Top 9 Rembrandt photographs

Conclusion

In conclusion, I think this photoshoot went well, as I understood the lighting technique and managed to achieve portraits using this lighting technique, because I was able to set up the studio correctly for the different types of lighting. I also experimented with different backgrounds, such as black or white backgrounds, to give the photograph a different mood. I was also able to direct my models to try different poses and to sit at different angles or facing different ways. This helped change the mood of the photographs. I also experimented a lot with my editing skills, as I used a brightening tool on Lightroom to brighten up my models eyes, so they would be more visible and stand out more. Furthermore, I also used a correction tool on Lightroom to correct or get rid of any blemishes on my models skin, hair etc. I then also experimented with making my photos black and white, so it would give a complete new portrait and a complete new mood.

The term Rembrandt lighting is relatively new. The term was originally coined by 20th century filmmaker Cecil B. DeMille when he made the film The Virginia Warriors. As the story progressed, he borrowed several spotlights to recreate a lighting scheme in which the actors’ faces were half illuminated.

Rembrandt lighting is a technique using one light as well as a reflector or two separate lights. It is a popular as it gives an image a dramatic look as well as a natural look. it is recognisable through the lit-up triangle on the subjects unlit side of their face.

My photoshoot:

Best photos:

Editing:

Before and after:

Next I cropped the photo to remove some of the background to ensure the model was the main focus of the photo rather than the space around.

Final edit:

I think this edit is successful as there is a clear triangle under the models left eye which shows that it is a Rembrandt inspired photo. I also think the black and white makes the highlights brighter and the shadows darker which enhances the contrast between them, this is especially useful for the triangle under the eye and it makes it clear. By cropping the photo and adding the vignette effect the focus of the photo is drawn to the centre, the model.

I colour-coded all my Rembrandt photos into one colour so they were clear to point out and to easily assess which ones were the best compared to the worst.

REMBRANDT EDITED IMAGES:

I created a virtual copy of the original image so that I could create a black & white version too. I cropped the background as there was a lot empty space surrounding the subject and I didn’t want this to make the viewer’s eyes wonder to the background. I really like the way the light has created a warm tone on one side of her face and given me that ideal triangle underneath the eye. I used a gold reflector to do this which I think has worked quite effectively.

Original image:

MY SECOND IMAGE:

I really like this pose as she looks very relaxed and calm leaning on her chair. I had similar photos to this but I found that this one was better because I liked the way her head was positioned more. The light has given her a warm tone and this lighting has worked very well. I also like the way she is not entirely central and more to the side as this makes it different from a standard image. There is a lot of light brought into her eyes as I got someone to hold a reflector for me to bounce the light onto her face.

Original image:

MY THIRD IMAGE:

I really like this image as I didn’t have to do much editing, I really like the expression and where her hand is placed as I feel it makes her more connected to the viewer. I chose to put it in black and white because I felt that it just looked better. I also really liked the way she is looking up into the camera as its a more powerful way to use the eyes.

Original image:

MY FOURTH IMAGE:

I really liked this image because it has an element of Chiaroscuro lighting in it alongside Rembrandt due to the split lighting however there’s a clear triangle of light below the eye which I think has worked effectively. To improve this, I could use a reflector when taking the image to bring more light into her eyes as it is quite dark. The position she is in looks very relaxed and natural as she is resting on her hand.

Original image:

The final images:

Butterfly lighting is a technique where the light source is placed directly above and slightly in front of the subject’s face, creating a small butterfly-shaped shadow under the nose. This happens because the lighting in the shot comes from above the models head. The technique is achieved by placing a light source at a 45-degree angle to the subject, slightly above eye level.

Butterfly lighting is primarily used in a studio setting. Butterfly lighting is mostly used for portraits, as it is flattering on everybody. It can either be a very harsh light or soft depending on the type of photo you want to achieve.

Here are some examples:

My photoshoot:

For my photos the Chiaroscuro photos are coloured yellow, the Rembrandt photos are red and the butterfly photos are coloured green

For this photo I didn’t edit it that much because the original photo perfectly displaced the butterfly lighting technique already so all I did was change the colour of the photo to a bit darker to match the dark backdrop.

For this photo I changed it to black and white to display the butterfly shadow under her nose and really show it off. Black and white was the better option for this photo as the model has dark hair and had a grey jumper on so by changing it to black and white demonstrates the darker features more effectively in this photo.

For this photo I edited the highlights and saturation of the photo as it looks like a happy photo as she is smiling so I turned up the whites, clarity and the saturation of the photo because I wanted to make the photo look more colourful to make it look vibrant and happy.

Chiaroscuro is a high-contrast lighting technique that uses a low-key lighting setup to achieve contrast between the subject and a dark background

Chiaroscuro is Italian for light/dark and makes the use of strong contrasts between light and dark, usually bold contrasts affecting a whole composition. In these photos the shadows are very harsh while the light is bright. There is a very obvious contrast of lighting in these photos.

here are some examples:

My photoshoot:

For my photos the Chiaroscuro photos are coloured yellow, the Rembrandt photos are red and the butterfly photos are coloured green

For this photo I edited it to black and white because I think it looks better than to when it was in colour. i changed the shadows and the blacks the most to make the darker side of my face look harsher but also cleaner so it is a prominent split between the middle of my face.

For this photo I took inspiration from the example photos by making one side of her face very dark and not prominent compared to the light side of her face to make it look light and vibrant I changed the texture and clarity to get rid of the highlights on the darker side of the photo.

In photography, I use a DLSR Canon camera to take photos, because it ensures they all have good quality and there are various different ways I can adjust my images. This camera is extremely beneficial for photography as it allows me to change the shutter speed, ISO and aperture.

• The shutter speed is the length of time from the moment the shutter opens and this then allows light into the camera. A fast shutter speed will create a short exposure, whereas as a slower shutter speed will create a long exposure. This is because the shutter is open for a longer period of time which allows more light into the camera.
• The aperture is the opening of the lens’s diagram through which light passes through. Having a smaller aperture creates a sharper image.
• The ISO ( International standard organization) is an image sensitivity in a numerical value. Having a higher ISO can lower the quality of your photo and degrade is which will cause your photos to be grainy or “noisy”.

We used this app to begin experimenting with different apertures, shutter speeds and ISO, which was helpful because it allowed us to decide which ones look best for each specific photo. We then could apply these skills to when we actually use the cameras, which saves time and we could identify which ones would benefit the photos most.

Aperture

Aperture controls the size of the lens opening which allows light into your camera.

Opening the lens more or having a low f-stop number (e.g. f/1.4) blurs the background/foreground around your subject. This is known as a shallow depth of field.

Keeping the lens more closed or having a high f-stop number (e.g. f/16) keeps the photo sharp throughout. This is known as a wide depth of field.

Shutter Speed

Shutter Speed is the amount of time the shutter is open to expose the image sensor to light.

Slow shutter speeds expose more light to the image sensor so still objects will have more detail and moving objects will appear to have more motion/be blurry.

Faster shutter speeds means less light is exposed to the image sensor and moving objects appear more still.

ISO

The ISO of a camera selects how much light the image sensor detects.

Too much light on a sunny day can cause overexposed shots so a lower ISO would be preferred.

Too little light in a shady room or day can cause grainy images.

The general rule is to use the lowest ISO possible to get the most detail possible.

Exposure Meter

The Exposure Meter is your final check before you snap a shot. It shows you how well your aperture, ISO and shutter speed are working together.

It is used as a guide to show exposure.

White Balance

White balance is the ratio of blue light to red light in an image which refers to the concept of colour temperature.

White balance is measured is Kelvin(K). Higher values of Kelvin contain more blue light whereas lower values of Kelvin contain more red light.

Rembrandt-

for this shoot I wanted to create Rembrandt lighting in the best possible way in my ability, I did this by making sure I had the lighting on point and making the shadows I needed to make around the face. And these are the photos I came up with.

4-5 star photos (best photos I came up with)-

3-4 star photos (decent photos I came up with)–

1-2 star (worst photos)-

Butterfly lighting– I judged these based of the lighting on the face and how well the butterfly effect was created on the subject.

4-5 star photos (best photos I came up with)-

3-4 star photos (decent photos I came up with)–

1-2 star (worst photos)-

conclusion-

in conclusion I think that there is a lot of room for improvement when it comes to taking my photos as there is only a handful that I think show off the lighting technique to its best. I think if I was to do this photoshoot again I would take a lot more photos and keep adjusting the lighting until its perfect.