I decided to ask my dad some questions on the role of surfing in his life because I think it will be an interesting and important addition to my final photobook. The questions and answers are as follows.
Why do you enjoy surfing?
For me, it is like hunting… Something that my body is designed to do, but the modern world does not allow. It gets me into nature, watching interpreting, calculating and executing with precision, stealth and grace. These are fundamental requirements of the human existence, which are increasingly hard to satisfy in this alien world that we have created.
When did you start/How did you start?
I started surfing around (marginally before) my 21st birthday because I moved to Cornwall from the Midlands. Surfing therefore became available to me. I honestly think that I would have always been a surfer if it had been available. I always craved, exciting, energetic, acrobatic activities. As a child, I had aspirations to be a ski jumper/cliff diver/Olympic gymnast. Like surfing, they were unrealistic dreams for somebody growing up in a Midland town, without much money. Therefore, as soon as one of these types of activities became accessible to me, I seized the opportunity with both hands, both feet, whatever I could grasp it with.
What draws you to surfing/How are you still drawn to it after so many years?
My previous answers, explain some of what draws me to surfing.
It is also a lot to do with showing off. I don’t mind admitting that I have always enjoyed the feeling of displaying my talents. This is true for any performer, it’s about feeding off the energy of the onlookers… sometimes that is envy, sometimes that is awe, most of the time it can be stated more modestly as enjoyment and appreciation. As a surfer, these good feelings come my way both in the water and out of the water, especially as I have got older… the youthful mind/body/spirit that is maintained by the activity, carries into the rest of my life, giving me a rare sense of confidence and self-worth in just about every walk of life.
What is the best thing about it?
I’m afraid I could never choose a favourite thing, I’m just not decisive enough, so I shall simply add to the positives that I’ve already described… it is a great leveller. Over the years, by chance, I have surfed with people who are extremely wealthy, world famous actors and musicians… people who, ordinarily operate in much lofty circles than me. But when we are in the water, we are all nothing but vulnerable human beings, naked in the face of nature. Whoever can tame and dance with these great forces, with the greatest prowess, becomes the star of the show for that particular moment. Kings and queens can literally become humbled and star struck by paupers and outcasts.
How has it impacted your life?
In all of the aforementioned positive ways, but also in some negative ways. It is an addictive lifestyle. Possibly one of the most healthy addictions you could have, but nonetheless the definition of an addiction is something that you continue to do and to chase, even when you know it is causing you harm.
In the grand scheme, with true objectivity and end-of-life hindsight, perhaps I wouldn’t describe it as harmful. But in the shorter term, I can honestly say that it makes relationships very difficult to maintain. The flipside of loving surfing is loathing commitment. My innate loathing of commitment is grossly incompatible with the modern cultural norm. The older I get, the more and more separate from society I feel.
Where is the best place you have ever surfed?
The ocean.