What is exposure bracketing:

Exposure bracketing is a technique where, instead of taking a single photo, you take three (or more) that are all exposed slightly differently; normally one is correctly exposed, one slightly underexposed, and one slightly overexposed. You can set up your camera both manually (changing the settings each time) and automatically (only choosing a step and the camera adjusting itself after each photo).

The purpose of this is to cover more of the dynamic range. Bracketed photos are used later to create an HDR (high dynamic range) photo. Some other bracketing techniques include white balance bracketing or focus bracketing.

How to exposure bracket (automatically):

Firstly, set up your camera on a tripod and select a bracketing mode in your settings. Next you have to decide an amount of brackets for your picture. This will be the amount of different exposure pictures that you will have. Then set up the camera so that there is a 2 seconds delayed shutter. If you have this timer set, the camera will take all the brackets automatically. This means you will not have to click the button over and over again which will prevent the camera moving and therefore not making perfectly identical pictures. Lastly, you click the shutter button once to start the process.

Exposure bracketing is when a photographer creates pictures with different exposure settings, photography bracketing can help you photograph high contrast scenes. Bracketing is an easy way to overcome technical limitations and create natural-looking images.

This technique is simply a way to ensure you’ve captured a scene with the “best” exposure possible by taking a series of three to seven photos with varying exposures. The purpose of this is to cover more of the dynamic range.

How to bracket photos

1. Set your camera on a tripod.
2. Select a bracketing mode in your camera settings. Most cameras have it somewhere; please refer to the user manual.
3. Select an appropriate number of brackets for the scene.
4. Set camera on 2 seconds delayed shutter. If you have this timer set, the camera will take all the brackets automatically. You won’t have to click the button many times. It prevents the slightest camera movements and makes the blending easier.
5. Click the shutter button.

What is Rural Landscape?

Rural landscape describes the diverse portion of the nation’s land area not densely populated or intensively developed, and not set aside for preservation in a natural state.

Rural means relating to the country, country people or life, or agriculture.

Rural Landscape Photographers

Steve Huff is a photographer who focused one of his projects on rural landscapes in 2009 and 2010, he photographed abandoned houses, factories and rural landscape. In my opinion his photos are eye-catching the derelict buildings give the photographs an eerie feeling, the dark points and shadows on the image below attracts the attention of the audience due to the cold feeling and the different shades shown.

Other photographers

Fay Godwin, was a British photographer known for her black-and-white landscapes of the British countryside and coast born in Berlin in 1931, Fay grew up in various countries having a British diplomat father and an American artist mother (of Scottish ancestry). They were posted to various countries and this multi-cultural, upper class, artistic environment created a passion for the contemporary arts and literature that permeated her life.

Godwins way into photography was through family snaps in the mid-1960s. She had no formal training, but after the snaps came portraits, reportage, and finally, through my love of walking, landscape photography, all in black and white. A Fellowship with the National Museum of Photography in Bradford led her to urban landscape in colour, and very personal close-up work in colour has followed.

Fay Godwin was critical of her work, Godwin went on to reject the notion of beauty and landscape, even going so far as to stating that her photography did not fit anywhere in the ‘sublime’, romantic tradition.

In my opinion Godwins work fits into the idea of the sublime and romanticism due to the moody sky and the natural beauty of the location being photographed, she captures the light in the photo which adds an act of dimension to the photo.

The photo above is one of my favourite photos from her collections, what makes it so eye-catching for me is the perfect reflection projected on the water of the mountains and the flooded tree.

Typologies came about in 1959 when a German couple Bernd and Hilla Becher began photographing old and derelict, run down, industrial buildings or towers which were being taken down. They had an aim to capture a number of different landscapes before they were all completely gone, and produced some clear black and white images containing lots of depth. They took multiple image of similar buildings making sure the weather and angle was as close to the other images as possible. They took each images from the same distance away from the building so that they would be uniformed ad symmetrical. The Becher’s were also lecturers and influenced many young people through their photography at The Dusseldorf School of Photography. Some key photographic topologists consisted of: Thomas Struth, Thomas Ruff, Thomas Demand and Gillian Wearing.  

Bernd and Hilla Becher:

Many people have been inspired by typology photography, and have taken their own spin on it using different objects as opposed to industrial buildings as seen bellow.

My response to Ansel Adams photography. The comparison of the depth of field in my image is similar as the foreground of the rocks, middle ground of the clouds/sea and the mountains in the background. The light from the sky shinning on the foreground of the image contrasts the background which is dark and gloomy. Using the low angle makes the mountains seem so much bigger than the small rocks.

This shows the comparison of the two images and how the foreground midground and background are the same. The rocks at the front of the image creates depth field in the image.

 The New Topographics arose in 1975 and is where photographers capture contemporary, urban or suburban landscapes. The movements was a reaction to the increasingly suburbanised world and landscapes around them as well as the tyranny of idealised in landscape photography. People involved were trying to keep the world more natural and used photography to get their message across as opposed to words etc.

mood board:

mind map:

For this photoshoot I am going to visit some different palaces as seen above to try and recreate some photos from the New Topographic era. I will ensure that my images are in focus and when they have been take I will edit them on Lightroom to make them black and white, as well as enhancing their features.

Robert Adams:

Robert Adams is an American photography, he focused his work on the ever changing western American landscape. His work first became prominent in the mid 1970’s being promoted by his book The New West, as well as his participation in the New Topographic expedition. Many people in that time and still to this day are inspired by his work and got them into taking pictures.

analysis of image:

I think that Adams’ images are very effective as they stand out with the bold black and white tones, they draw viewers into them as they catch our eyes. I think that his images are capable of holding a lot of meaning behind them as they have depth allowing us to have out own beliefs about them or creating stories in out minds of what we think is happening in the image.

Lewis Baltz:

Lewis Baltz was an American visual artist and photographer. In the late 1970’s he became important in the New Topographic movement. He was best known for his monochrome photography of suburb landscapes and industrial parks, focusing on the bleakness of beauty. Baltz’s says that there is a presence of people in all of his work, ‘they’re present in their absence’. I like his style of photography as it is very run down and shows people how anything can make a good image with lots of detail.

Exposure bracketing is a technique where, instead of taking a single photo, you take three (or more) that are all exposed slightly differently; normally one is correctly exposed, one slightly underexposed, and one slightly overexposed. It’s in quite a few situations, so let’s look at how it works.

In Class Examples

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Above are six photos that we took in the the ‘Street’ a school, the first two photos are over exposed

As soon as you take your first shot, adjust the exposure compensation, shutter speed or ISO by around one stop and take a second shot. Adjust the shutter speed or ISO two stops in the other direction and take a third.

Before and After Editing