Ansel Easton Adams was an American landscape photographer and eco-activist known for his monochrome images of the American West. He helped found Group f/64, an association of
photographers advocating “pure” photography which favoured sharp focus and the use of the full tonal range of a photograph.
One of the most crucial legacies of Adams is the way in that his photographs contributed to the American preservation movement. His technical knowledge and the undeniable beauty of welcome work paved the habit for photography to be shown beside traditional portrait and portraiture in national galleries.
Adams’s first photographs were published in 1921, and Best’s Studio began selling his Yosemite prints the next year. In 1927, Adams began working with Albert M. Bender, a San Francisco insurance magnate and arts patron. Between 1929 and 1942, Adams’s work matured, and he became more established. The 1930s were a particularly experimental and productive time for him.
what: I am taking photos of natural areas of the island like forests, beaches, fields and cliffs.
where: anywhere where their is natural beauty such as beaches, forests, fields, sand dunes, etc. the places where I will be taking pictures of will be places of interest where its know for its beauty.
when: I plan on going on the weekend or after school these seem like the best time to do the work and if its to dark after school I can always do it on the weekend.
how: I will go around the island looking around for unique sites and take photos of them. I will also take into consideration lighting and the time of day to get the best photo possible also my camera settings will be adjusted depending on the situation.
why: to learn new skills and different methods of photography and to take photos and see how they turn out.
Exposure bracketing is a technique used in low light conditions which allows a photographer to ensure that they will definitely capture every aspect of the image without under or overexposing it.
This is done by taking more than one image (typically three), with one being overexposed, one correctly exposed and the other being underexposed. This allows all light levels that are detectable by the human eye to be shown in the image when all the exposures are blended together.
This can be done automatically in the camera’s settings or manually with control of the shutter speed, moving it up or down in increments.
Here are some examples taken with the manual method in school.
And here are some taken with the automatic method, which only takes three exposures in one go.
to start i used a light backboard with a blue overlay to add pop to the background and place dark scissors over the top to give a nice and prominent contrast.
I also tried to take photos of a bible and different rolls of tape which did not work out so well as i did not realise the camera was out of focus.
These photos were taken at Greve de Lecq on a cloudy day at high tide, i chose to go on a cloudy day to capture the mood they sky can create in photos which Ansel Adams captures, i also went on a high-tide to try to take photos of the water crashing against the rocks.
I also went to Queen’s Valley Reservoir to take photos however i am not pleased with the majority of these photos as the ISO was too high leaving the photos being too bright i tried to edit them darker on Light-room however it made the darker parts of the photo even darker and didn’t darken the parts which i wanted to be darken.
Before and after editing
These photos were taken on the lanes in St.Saviours, i like the majority of the photos i have taken on this shoot i turned some of the photos into black and white, which i think make the photos look better because it shows all the high and low points of the image, it also highlights the shadows within the image.
I adjusted most of these photos by turning down the highlights and whites and turning up the shadows this made the images darker without turning the shadows black.
For this shoot I am going to focus on the towers in Jersey. I have chosen these because I think they fit in well with the typology theme and match the same style as some of Bernd and Hilla Becher’s images who are my artist inspiration for this shoot. When photographing the towers for this shoot I am going to ensure a few things. Firstly, that the tower is in the middle of the frame as my inspiration images are and I want to make them look as similar as possible, as well as making sure then the lighting and sky in all the image are the same so the the only thing that I change is the tower itself.
Exposure bracketing is the process of creating photographs with different exposure settings. Usually, you take 2 more photographs (therefore, a minimum of 3 photographs need to be taken). One is slightly underexposed, and another is slightly overexposed.
Exposure bracketing – Automatically
Here are the steps you need to take to do exposure bracketing automatically:
Press menu
Go to the AEB setting (Auto Exposure Bracketing)
Adjust with the dial
Press set
Exposure bracketing – Manually
Here are the steps you need to take to do exposure bracketing manually:
Put the camera into manual mode (M)
Press the AV button (Aperture Value)
Change the aperture to F16
Change the ISO to 100
Adjust the shutter speed after every photo; start in the middle exposure then adjust after every photo