All posts by Eleanor Jones

Filters

Author:
Category:

Essay

In what way have Mary Ellen Mark and Laia Abril portrayed women’s mental and physical health. 

“I remember learning that society had mandated that getting my period should remain a secret. The same ritual that was supposed to symbolize that I had “become a woman,” came with an unbearable pain that was normalized.”  
Abril, L. (2021) Menstruation Myths.  

Menstruation is an example of one of the many things that women must go through; yet keep it concealed due to society’s opinion on it. Women have been stereotyped to be accommodating and emotional, this could easily be interpreted as weak. Women grow up with this stigma and therefore have been known to be victimised by others. This has been proven with statistics provided by the UK government, let alone the rest of the world.  Laia Abril is known for focusing on things that women could go through at some point in their life. Her project History of Misogyny include the topics: rape, abortion, periods, eating disorders and sexuality. Her images are always raw to show the true feelings and experiences of going through these situations; for rape she focused solely on objects that can be connected to the subject. This form of photography helps engrave the reality of things in people’s minds. Mary Ellen Mark has done a range of work, including being an associate producer for the film American Heart in 1992 as well as creating many photo books, all seemingly focusing on social minorities. Her work over the years has helped her accumulate many awards which she began to receive in 1980 for her work Mother Theresa to her most recent award in 2014 for an outstanding contribution to photography award. Both women have showed the public what life is like for others who could be counted as less fortunate than themselves. They have inspired my work and I have tried to adopt their techniques and themes throughout my personal study. I want my work to be more informative than emotional. I want to reveal the realities of life for women.  

The feminist movement took off when the Suffragettes began to fight for women being able to vote in the UK in the 1870s, this was known as first wave feminism. Once the First World War began, the men went off to war and the women had to stay behind and help work in factories and build bombs rather than staying in the house doing domestic work. This meant that when the war was over, women wanted to have more independence and get their own job away from the house, and their husbands. This became a popular opinion, the fact that women over the age of 30 in the UK in 1918 may have had a part in it also. The second wave in the feminist movement began in the 1960s and led to the 1990s during the anti-war protests. Instead of focusing purely on the gender inequalities, the second wave of feminists broadened those ideas onto sexuality, reproductive rights, domestic violence, marital rape etc. This was a huge deal as this time it was not only women protesting, but men also joined in as they saw the injustice in the world. This wave helped enforce the criminalisation of marital rape in 1994 (UK) as well as in 1965 (USA) the Griswold v. Connecticut Supreme Court ruling of 1965 prevented anyone from limiting a woman’s access to contraception or other methods of birth control. This ground breaking work done by historical movements has allowed Mary Ellen Mark and Laia Abril to create the work they wanted without anyone questioning whether they are the right people for the job.  

Emmeline Pankhurst getting arrested in the streets of Manchester (1910)

The Oxford dictionary definition of documentary is “to document or record”.  Documentary photography has been used to keep record of major events that happen worldwide. This includes civil wars, world wars, coronations, and even natural disasters. Photography is a way for information to be held in the mind without needing to remember key information such as dates and times, all you need to remember is the details of the image itself. It’s scientifically proven that images are registered better than words by the brain, this means that if an image is attached to a news article, you are more than likely going to remember the story because they remember the contents of the images and not necessarily the paragraphs of information that they just read. Therefore, photography is such an important part of life, we can process valuable information a lot easier, and it is often enjoyable unlike reading pages and pages of information. The term Documentary Photography can be seen as contradictory. Images can be interpreted in different ways which is the opposite of a documentary which states purely facts from whatever topic it is based on. For example, the image above of Miss Pankhurst being arrested could be interpreted in many ways. Her facial expression is not as emotive as someone would expect when being arrested for something you believe in. One would expect more of a commotion when someone is being arrested for fighting for basic human rights. She seems as though she is at peace with the fact that she is going to be locked up for an unknown amount of time. This contradicts with the fact that she is being held at the wrist by the police officer. He seems to be gripping her so tight that she is having to latch on to her pair of gloves. This is the danger of documentary photography, everything that was just explained was an opinion. No one knows what the circumstances of the situation unless they were there themselves. “We no longer believe that the photograph directly replicates the circumstances” (Wells 2003:16). 

Laia Abril’s work is what some would deem abstract for the subjects that she is addressing. For example, On Rape has images of different uniforms, this helps explain to the world that what a woman or man wears is not the issue; it is the people who think it’s acceptable to do it that are the issue. You don’t need to be doing anything specific to be found in that situation, it’s solely the rapist that can tell you when it’ll happen; often it’s too late. In addition to this, Menstruation Myths is an amazing collection of images which help raise awareness of the stigmatism of the natural menstruation cycle. The colour theme of her images is red to symbolise blood. Blood in most circumstances is seen as one of the most important parts of the body, this is due to its lifesaving roles in the body. Yet when a woman is on her period it is seen as disgusting and something that shouldn’t be spoken about openly, even though almost every woman must go through it for forty plus years of their life. My favourite image she made is a silhouette of a woman and there are white dots going down the centre of her body as though it’s her spine and at the bottom of those dots, a female reproductive system highlighted. I feel as though the image had helped highlight the fact that every woman has a uterus, and almost every woman goes through it in their lifetime. 

Taken from Laia Abril’s Menstruation Myths.

Abril’s work mainly consists of objects rather than people. I feel like she has done this so more people are able to relate to certain situations, rather than setting out a whole scenario for only a few people to link to. She did this because she knows that “the repercussions are most of the time psychological, so it’s very difficult to visualise it.” (Abril 2019) in response to the fact that rape is difficult to capture due to it being stigmatised. This shows that she is conscious of how she composes her images, to prevent any unnecessary pain towards the viewer. While doing this, she manages to show the fact that the women who are represented in her images are not victims, but survivors who are strong and able to take back control of their lives. She helps those who are viewing her images that nothing can stop you from being who you are and no matter what has happened in your life, you are strong enough to fight back.  

“There is only one reason I’ve stayed a photographer for so many years. Photography is always challenging” Ellen Mark, M. (1998) American Photo

Ward 81 is a book that haunts the minds of its viewers. The images have no notes which leaves the viewer predicting what has happened to the person on the page. The books itself is very monotone and simple and this was shown with a white border as the images displayed were often mounted. However, the images throughout are varied sizes and seem to have no pattern, this could have been done intentionally to help represent the instability of the women in the ward. As you flick through the book, the images become progressively more graphic and traumatic. Once the final images have been shown, the editing notes can be seen, this helps the viewer understand Ellen Mark’s thought processes when bringing all the images together. Her main inspiration was W. Eugene Smith, he is seen by many as one of the most important photographers in the development of the editorial photo essay. The work that inspired Mark was the Country Doctor, one of Smith’s famous pieces of work.

The doctor taped a patient who broke some ribs after a horse rolled over him.
W. E. Smith’s “Country Doctor”

Mary Ellen Mark herself, was an inspiration to many. The only reason that Ward 81 happened was because she was a photographer on the set of One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest; it was filmed on an empty ward in Oregon State mental institute. Once the film had been released, Mary Ellen Mark returned there in 1976 and stayed in the hospital for six weeks in an abandoned ward next to the women’s metal ward. The women who were in there, were a danger to either themselves or someone else and needed to be under strict supervision. Mark was able to highlight the fact that the brain is a mysterious organ, and it only takes one person’s opinion to be deemed insane. Ward 81 was created to show the world how the supposedly insane live from an outsider’s opinion. The raw images highlight the fact that the women were sometimes shocked with electrical currents when their behaviour wasn’t up to someone’s standards. Everything in that ward was created because of someone’s opinion. Mary Ellen Mark allowed people to see the true story of life. She wanted people to see the model’s true self and not the barrier they put up for everyone else. The most amazing thing about Ward 81, is the unpredictability of it; this is due to the fact even she didn’t know what the women would be doing that day. This is since their own brain has taken over, they could no longer function as a stereotypically normal person, and became a danger not only just to themselves but also society.  However, there is a sense, as you get further into the book, of familiarisation and a connection between the camera and the women.  

Mary Ellen Mark- ” Ward 81″ (300B-016-035)

As well as Ward 81, Mark created her book, STREETWISE as well as a book about Indian women who had gone into the occupation of prostitution, called Falkland Road: Prostitutes of Bombay. These books were created and further showed the true lives of others. Mark doesn’t censor her images unlike the press, this helps show the world that the human body is beautiful, and no two bodies are identical. The world nowadays only highlights the supposed perfections in life and hides the things women having to go through, such as prostitution, just so they can have food and water and pay bills. Mark showed the world that no woman is the same, as well as showing a joint injustice the world shows to women because of our sex. Although documentary photography is never created in a malicious way, some people, such as Martha Rosler, believe that the fact that some people who do not intervene with what was happening in the images they took is a crime against humanity. “The site of victim photography in which the victims, insofar as they are now victims of the camera” (Rosler 1981). This highlights the fact that when people are being photographed in certain situations, they could be seen as trapped. For example, in Falkland Road, there are images of teens who are prostituting their bodies, which is illegal and can be seen as immoral if not stopped. In addition to this, in Ward 81, the image 300B-069-011 is of a woman surrounded by nurses with what seems to be a lollipop stick in her mouth, this suggests that she is going through pain, surely one would assume that, that moment in time was not the best to be interfering in whatever the patient was going through.  This supports Rosler’s opinions, Mary Ellen Mark could have tried to stop the young girls putting themselves in danger by selling their own bodies to people who could potentially put them in danger both physically as well as mentally.  

“FALKLAND ROAD:PROSTITUTES OF BOMBAY”- Mary Ellen Mark (300D-001-016)

For my personal study, I have worked mainly in portraiture. I have focused on the theme of secrecy and wanted to incorporate the phrase “see no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil”. I wanted this to symbolise the deafening silence of assault victims who are too afraid to speak up. Most of my images are in black and white, like Mary Ellen Mark’s work. Black and white is often used as a phrase which has connotations of simplicity and history as historical images are stereotypically in black and white. This contradicts the topic of my project.  Mental and physical health is complex, there is rarely a definitive answer to most queries that are brought forward. In addition, I have taken inspiration from Laia Abril’s work by taking images of objects which may seem simple but the more you look at it, the more meaning the object begins to have. Both Ellen Mark and Abril take images that, at first glance, may not seem like they have much meaning, but the longer they are looked at, the true meaning of the images becomes clearer.  

I addition to Ellen Mark and Abril, Jo Spence is an inspiration to my work. She used photography as therapy, and this started because she was diagnosed with breast cancer. She documented the stages of her life whilst living with the disease as well as fighting against the stereotypes of what a woman’s body should look like. This is important to note as she had to make the decision on whether she would have a mastectomy or not. A mastectomy is a major operation for a woman to go through as breasts are always associated with the female image. In the end she only had tissue removed from the breast yet still wanted to show that you do not need to have a certain body part to be seen as a woman. At the end of the day, a breast is just tissues and fat that is stored in the body, not a symbol of femininity. 

Libido Uprising Part I and Part II Jo Spence (1989)

Both Abril and Mark help show their audience, that women are strong individuals and no matter what they go through, they are still women. This is especially important to them; their work have shown different sides of individuals who have gone through different things but still convey the same message of power and control. Both artists show some form of control whether it be positive, when the women regain confidence and go back to what they counted as normal before whatever happened to them occurred. Or negative, like the women in Ward 81 when sadly their own minds had taken over and trapped them in a mental institution for their own safety. Both points highlight the fact that Mary Ellen Mark and Laia Abril wanted to show their audience that the female body and mind are powerful. The female body will in one way, or another save itself from pain and grief and help mend itself, even if added help is needed in the process.  

Although both Abril and Ellen Mark have shown the power that women have, neither have shown women in a positive way. They both focused on why women must be strong due to negative situations rather than how women are strong in normal situations, like being mums and grandparents. The injustices shouldn’t be used to show the good in the world. The good in the world should be able to shine through without the need for bad things. Jo Spence used photography to show how much she grew; she took a bad thing that happened to her and made it positive. Photography is a powerful invention. It can be used for good but can also be manipulated into something it is not. It’s subjective yet provides facts. We need to use it to show the world that we are strong, not that we are weak.        

Deconstructing Photobook

Ward 81– Mary Ellen Mark

This book was created because Mary Ellen Mark was hired to work on Milos Forman’s “One flew over the cuckoo’s nest“. The set was filmed in Oregon State Mental Hospital, Salem, in 1975. This is how Mary Ellen Mark came to know the ward, she was given a tour of a Dr. Dean Brooks who was the director of the hospital at the time. Ward 81 was a maximum security ward for women, this meant that the women she photographed were either a danger to themselves or others. Once her work was completed, she returned to Oregon State Mental Hospital in 1976, however this time she stayed for 6 weeks in an empty ward next to ward 81. This way she was able to get to know the women in the ward well.

Layout

Ward 81’s layout is one that was used a lot during exhibitions in the 1970s. This was with a white border as the images displayed were often mounted. However the images throughout are different sizes and seem to have no particular pattern, this could have been done intentionally to help represent the instability of the women in the ward. As you flick through the book, the images become progressively more graphic and traumatic.

Once the final images have been shown, the editing notes can be seen, this helps the viewer understand Mary Ellen Mark’s thought process when bringing all the images together. Her main inspiration was W. E. Smith, he is seen by many as one of the most important photographers in the development of the editorial photo essay. The work that inspired Mark was the “Country Doctor”, one of W. E. Smith’s famous pieces of work.

Essay

Requirements taken from blog :

1. Literary Sources
2. Essay Question
3. Essay Plan

  1. Research and identify 3-5 literary sources from a variety of media such as books, journal/magazines, internet, Youtube/video that relates to your personal study and artists references .
  2. Begin to read essay, texts and interviews with your chosen artists as well as commentary from critics, historians and others.
  3. It’s important that you show evidence of reading and draw upon different pints of view – not only your own.
  4. Take notes when you’re reading…key words, concepts, passages
  5. Write down page number, author, year, title, publisher, place of publication so you can list source in a bibliography

Harvard System of Referencing

Bibliography:
Roberts, P. (2007), The genius of colour photography: from the autochrome to the digital age. London: Goodman

List all the sources that you have identified above as literary sources. Where there are two or more works by one author in the same year distinguish them as 1988a, 1988b etc. Arrange literature in alphabetical order by author, or where no author is named, by the name of the museum or other organisation which produced the text. Apart from listing literature you must also list all other sources in alphabetical order e.g. websites/online sources, YouTube/ DVD/TV.

In-text referencing:

In The genius of colour photography it states that Vogue ‘had determinedly set publishing trends before and after that date [1932]’ (Roberts 2007,126)

  1. Use quotes to support or disprove your argument
  2. Use quotes to show evidence of reading
  3. Use Harvard System of Referencing…see Powerpoint: harvard system of referencing for further details on how to use it.

Given Plan:

  1. Essay question:
  2. Opening quote
  3. Introduction (250-500 words): What is your area study? Which artists will you be analysing and why? How will you be responding to their work and essay question?
  4. Pg 1 (500 words): Historical/ theoretical context within art, photography and visual culture relevant to your area of study. Make links to art movements/ isms and some of the methods employed by critics and historian. Link to powerpoints and resources above about art movements and isms.
  5. Pg 2 (500 words): Analyse first artist/photographer in relation to your essay question. Present and evaluate your own images and responses.
  6. Pg 3 (500 words): Analyse second artist/photographer in relation to your essay question. Present and evaluate your own images and responses.
  7. Conclusion (250-500 words): Draw parallels, explore differences/ similarities between artists/photographers and that of your own work that you have produced
  8. Bibliography: List all relevant sources used

My Plan:

Essay Question:

Explain how the photographers Mary Ellen Mark and Laia Abril portray women’s mental and physical health.

Sources of information:

  • Mary Ellen Mark Sources:
  • British Journal of Photography
  • https://www.vogue.com/article/mary-ellen-mark-the-book-of-everything
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFY8ygQjd60
  • Mary Ellen Mark Quotes:
  • “Your subjects will trust you only if you’re confident about what you’re doing. They can sense that immediately.”
  • Laia Abril sources :
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wk39lsWQlQ
  • https://www.theglassmagazine.com/glass-interviews-spanish-photographer-laia-abril/ (Emma Hart 25/03/2019)
  • https://www.laiaabril.com/
  • Laia Abril Quotes:
  •  “the repercussions are most of the time psychological, so it’s very difficult to visualise it.” In response to how rape is a tricky thing to capture due to it being stigmatised
  • Countries which restrict contraception, what about rape, what about accidents, what about whatever? What when people have problems and cannot even have abortions when they have problems with the foetus, it is connected, being able to choose when you are able to be a mother or not. “- in response to abortion.
  • I remember learning that society had mandated that getting my period should remain a secret. The same ritual that was supposed to symbolize that I had “become a woman,”“- Menstruation myths (2021)

My Introduction

  1. What topic I am focusing (women’s mental and physical health)
  2. Introduction to photographers
  3. Include quotes from both photographers

Paragraph 1

  1. History on using photography as therapy as well as a documentary
  2. link to the feminist movement and #me-too movement. E.g Emmeline Pankhurst and Tarana Burke. Link to how they could have inspired other women in the world.

Paragraph 2

  1. Analyse Mary Ellen Mark’s Ward 81 as well as her work from Streetwise.
  2. Emphasise the fact that she was unable to control what she took images of as she was in a ward full of women who were only there due to the fact that they are unpredictable.
  3. Mention the fact that the women in streetwise look slightly unphased by everything that has happened to them.

Paragraph 3

  1. Analyse the work of Laia Abril (on rape, thinspiration and menstruation myths )
  2. List similarities between both artists even though Laia mainly used images of objects and not as much of people.

Conclusion

  1. Explain own images and how they link to both artists
  2. Bibliography

PLAN TAKEN FROM BLOG

  1. Open a new Word document > SAVE AS: Essay draft
  2. Copy essay question into Essay titleHypothesis > if you don’t have one yet, make one!
  3. Copy your essay introduction (from Essay Plan) which will give you a framework to build upon and also copy your Statement of Intent.
  4. Identify 2 quotes from sources identified in an earlier task using Harvard System of Referencing.
  5. Use one quote as an opening quote: Choose a quote from either one of your photographers or critics. It has to be something that relates to your investigation.
  6. Add sources to Bibliograpphy > if by now you don’t have any sources, use  S. Sontag. On Photography Ch1
  7. Begin to write a paragraph (250-500 words) answering the following questions below.
  8. You got 45 mins to write and upload to the blog!
  • Think about an opening that will draw your reader in e.g. you can use an opening quote that sets the scene. Or think more philosophically about the nature of photography and and feeble relationship with reality.
  • You should include in your introduction an outline of your intention of your study e.g.
  • What are you going to investigate.
  • How does this area/ work interest you?
  • What are you trying to prove/challenge, argument/ counter-argument?
  • Whose work (artists/photographers) are you analysing and why?
  • What historical or theoretical context is the work situated within. Include 1 or 2 quotes for or against.
  • What links are there with your previous studies?
  • What have you explored so far in your Coursework or what are you going to photograph?
  • How did or will your work develop.
  • What camera skills, techniques or digital processes in Photoshop have or are you going to experiment with?

Art movements and Isms

Pictorialism (1880s-1920s)

It was created because many people at the time believed that photography was not classed as art. This led to people manipulating their images to make their work look more like paintings/drawings. They did this by spreading Vaseline on the lens of their camera and also scratching the negatives of their images.

Vaseline on the camera’s lens meant that the image looked blurred creating a stroked effect. This blurred image mimicked the brush strokes of a paintbrush and therefore allowed people to see it as art.

Scratching the negatives gave the images more texture. This meant that the images looked a lot like drawings, the scratches mimicked pencil lines and made the images look like someone sat for hours on end perfecting this image when it was actually created by light and shadows.

Pictorialism was heavily inspired by romanticism. This meant that pictorial images were often made showing love, femininity or elegance.

Romanticism (noun)

  1. A movement in the arts and literature that originated in the late 18th century, emphasizing inspiration, subjectivity, and the primacy of the individual.

Julia Margaret Cameron (1815-1879):

Julia’s photography has a running theme of showing women’s feelings and looks. She used Vaseline on the camera lens to give the women that she was photographing a more innocent look. She took images of women to show how sensitive they can be with their long hair and sullen facial expressions. The facial expressions make the viewer feel as though the women in the images are frail and vulnerable. This was a common thought towards women in England, during the 19th century.

As well as focusing on the beauty of women, she liked illustrating her views on religion and different literary works. This is shown with images such as “I Wait (R. Gurney), 1872” and “Beatrice, 1866

The image above has been captured to make the model look like Mary, the mother of Jesus. There are many statues of our lady, yet it seems every single statue manages to capture the same gaze. The model in the image looks as though she is looking for hope just like the statues of our lady. Mary is looking to the sky for hope that God has kept her Son safe. Whereas the model seems as though she is looking for help from those on the earth.

This image is inspired by Beatrice Cenci:

“Beatrice Cenci was the daughter of Count Francesco Cenci, a tyrant who terrorized his wife and children. In retaliation for his abuse, Beatrice plotted with her stepmother and older brother to kill him. Though it’s not completely clear who committed the actual murder, an investigation uncovered the involvement of two men along with the three Cenci family members. The two men died before being brought to the gallows. Beatrice, her stepmother, and older brother Giacomo were all executed on the tenth of September 1599. Only Beatrice’s younger brother Bernardo was spared execution.”

Paragraph above taken from:

https://www.getty.edu/art/collection/objects/58856/julia-margaret-cameron-beatrice-british-1866/

The images back story works well with the theme of women’s mental health. It highlights the fact that women have faced domesticated violence and rape for centuries.

Quotes by Julia Margaret Cameron:

“I longed to arrest all beauty that came before me, and at length the longing has been satisfied.”Julia Margaret Cameron

When I have had such men before my camera my whole soul has endeavoured to do its duty towards them in recording faithfully the greatness of the inner as well as the features of the outer man. The photograph thus taken has been almost the embodiment of a prayer.” – Julia Margaret Cameron

My Research:

Feminism

The feminist movement has been around for hundreds of years.

The movement however took off when the Suffragettes began to fight for women being able too vote in the UK in the 1870s, this was known as first wave feminism. Once the First World War began, the men went off to war and the women had to stay behind and help work in factories and build bombs rather than staying in the house doing domestic work. This meant that when the war was over women wanted to have more independence and get their own job away from the house and their husbands. This became an popular opinion, the fact that women over the age of 30 in the UK in 1918 may have had a part in it also.

The second wave in the feminist movement began in the 1960s and led to the 1990s during the anti-war protests. Instead of focusing purely on the gender inequalities, the second wave of feminists broadened those ideas onto sexuality, reproductive rights, domestic violence, marital rape etc. This was a huge deal as this time it was not only women protesting, men joined in as they saw the injustice in the world . This wave helped enforce the criminalisation of marital rape in 1994 (UK), in 1965 (USA) the Griswold v. Connecticut Supreme Court ruling of 1965 prevented anyone from limiting a woman’s access to contraception or other methods of birth control.

Review and Reflection

1. Describe which themes, medium (photography, film), approaches (documentary, tableaux, conceptual), artists (incl contextual references to art history, movements and isms) and photographic skills, processes, techniques and methods (incl learning new software) inspired you the most and why.

2. Include examples of both previous and current experiments and imagery to illustrate your thinking.

3. Produce a new mind-map and mood-board based around how you interpret one/ or both theme(s) of IDENTITY & COMMUNITY using new artists inspirations and visual references etc. Reflect on the Island Identity project and also consider themes more broadly (see below)

4. Write a Statement of Intent that clearly contextualise;
What you want to explore?
Why it matters to you?
How you wish to develop your project?
When and where you intend to begin your study?

Make sure you describe your chosen theme (IDENTITY & COMMUNITY), subject-matter (topic, issue), artists (inspirations, references) and final outcome (photobook, film).

5. Plan your first photo-shoot as a response to initial ideas. Must be published on the blog by Wed 2 Dec.

First Project: Identity and Place.

For our first project we were focusing on Portraiture as well as learning how to use the settings on our camera to create different images without it being edited heavily on photoshop. We experimented with things such as aperture, shutter speed and white balance.

I focused on the photographers Claud Cahun and Edward Honaker throughout this project. Edward Honaker is known for using photography to express his mental health. An example of how he does this is using a slow shutter speed whilst people are moving and I used this as an inspiration for my first shoot of this independent project. In addition to this I wanted to try and morph my models’ faces in another shoot. This meant I had to go into photoshop and gave them a whirlpool like structure on their face. Honaker’s images still inspire me and I would like to use his methods of editing in my personal study.

I believe that the first shoot allowed me to realise I enjoy doing portrait photography and that I would like to do it more often in my spare time as well as the main chunk of my personal study.

These images were used in my project to highlight that life shouldn’t be people obsessing over looks of themselves or others; but instead should be about personalities. I want to convey this message more throughout this project as I believe we can all wear a mask and not show who we truly are. We need to realise that we only have one life and we need to focus on the positives rather than dwelling on things that could happen or things that could be said etc.

Project 2: Pollution

For this second shoot, I wanted to show different types of pollution. I focused on air, water and plastic pollution. I tried to incorporate Portrait photography as much as possible.

The artist who inspired me the most for this project was Jeremy Caroll who created a photoshoot to highlight how deadly plastics are to ocean life, by putting humans in the sea creatures place.

I asked my model to wrap a plastic bag around her neck as well as shoe laces, receipts and a face mask to show that even the pandemic is causing global destruction to wildlife. The model then attempted to pull the rubbish from her neck.

For air pollution I asked my model who vaped to exhale I as was taking the images of her. This then allowed my images to show an exaggerated version of what the world will look like if we carried on emitting the gases that harm our planet.

I would like my images in this personal study to be eye opening like both Honaker and Caroll’s work. I wand people to understand that not everything is as it seems. People can be going through things without you even noticing. Someone could be the most popular person in the world and still feel alone and helpless.

Mindmap and Mood Board

This is a mindmap of ideas for my personal study. It highlights the areas I would like to focus on. My main idea is to highlight the fact that no one is how they seem. I would also like to include a juxtaposition throughout my work. This is why I have depression as well as happiness on my mindmap.

Final Film

New Normal:

This is the link to our final video, New Normal.

This film was created to highlight the fact that everyone should be able to wear what they want, when they want. We added a voice over as well as music in the background of the video. We did this so that the message of the video was fully understood and conveyed.

The background of the video highlights the fact that colours are often stereotyped to a gender. However the white colour highlights the fact that clothes should be gender neutral, that is why we had a male model wearing a dress.

The voiceover is to further emphasise that people should be themselves and that no one’s opinion should sway how they feel about themselves or stop them from expressing themselves. The voice over is a male because many judge men for dressing more feminine and call them derogative terms. The stereotyping of fashion could be harmful to the person’s mental health. Men are often thought as strong, unemotional and self sufficient. Often if men do not act this way they are seen as weak and fragile. The most common derogative names given to men who are not the media’s idea of masculine are called “flamboyant”, “gay” or “pansy”. Though these words in general are not commonly used to be offensive; the media has caused these regular words to be seen as rude and should someone be called these, they are not good enough.

Although we focused on the male perspective in our project that does not mean that this topic does not apply to women. Women have been called “sluts”, “tramps” or even “slapper”. The media judges women on the length of their clothing as well as their appearance (e.g. makeup) and brands a label on them which will often be seen by younger audiences which are more easily swayed by the media and its opinions, and will plant an idea of what they ‘should’ be wearing when they actually should be able to wear what the want without the fear of someone telling them they don’t look normal.

The media is the worst thing to read if you want to feel happy with yourself. The media constantly fixates on the topic of fixing yourself or making yourself look like the most famous celebrity (that often has a hair and makeup team, and possibly plastic surgery). The media shows celebrity “flaws” which then sways the reader’s mind on what they see as an acceptable way to look and dress.

Process:

We asked our model to wear different outfits:

  1. His normal clothes
  2. Baggy sweatshirt with Jeans
  3. Crop top and jeans
  4. Skater Dress

Screenshots from unedited film footage

Outfit 1

We wanted the model to be more serious and stereotypically masculine whilst wearing the first outfit. We did this because we wanted to show the changes in his confidence, when he was wearing the different outfits.

When this is edited the green screen will be a light blue colour to highlight the masculinity of our model. Blue is associated with the male gender. It is also linked with the ocean which is known to be fierce and uncontrollable. As well as the ocean, blue is associated with the sky and which is a major part in our life as it protects us from the universe around us.

Outfit 2

The second outfit was used to show a slight transition between the 1st and 3rd outfit. The baggy sweatshirt is hiding the masculine shirt; this could be seen as the beginning of the model feeling more confident in dressing in feminine outfits.

We wanted there to be serious poses as well as more laid-back / happier poses, leading up to the final outfit. We wanted to show the fact that the model doesn’t need to act a certain way to wear a certain style of clothes.

Outfit 3

For this outfit we asked the model to be a little bit more confident with his poses to ensure that it’s known that he doesn’t care what people think about him.

Outfit 4

For the final outfit, our model had more serious poses in the original unedited video (which is where I got my screenshots from), however the footage used in the video is showing the model being a lot more laid-back and relaxed in the outfit that he is in.

We used the footage from when the model was in this outfit throughout the film to help foreshadow what will be happening at the end of the film.

Images the final film

Inspiration:

Mario Testino

Mario Testino

Mario Testino is a famous fashion photographer who has been nicknamed “[the] godfather of fashion photography”. He has had a very close relationship with the fashion magazine VOGUE, and He has photographed celebrities such as Kate Moss, Oprah, Serena Williams and also the late Prince of Wales with the Duke of Edinburgh and the Duke of Cambridge.

https://time.com/3840119/mario-testino-i-believe-men-have-changed/

Contact Sheet

taken by Ellie

Edited Images

This first set of images is an over exaggeration of what men are stereotypically expected to be like. We added the pink background as the colour pink is often associated with femininity, we did this to emphasise the fact that anyone can do certain things and be perceived a certain way, and perseveration isn’t always correct.

Favourite image

This is my favourite images because it reminds me of the Uncle Sammy Propaganda that was used so that people would join the US army during the First World War.

This is a powerful pose because it makes the viewer feel as though that the model is looking and pointing at them. It shows that this issue needs to be fixed and we need to stop expecting people to be or act a certain way.

The image is black and white to represent the old fashioned ideas that many people have obtained due to the media. Media is the main for many generations. The media creates opinions and many readers are influenced by what is said.

The black and white could also represent a metaphorical prison. This shows that the model is trapped in a society where he doesn’t feel as though he belongs.

Shoot 2

Taken by Ellie

I believe that this shoot was more successful than the first shoot as I was able to get a range of different poses but also able to zoom in more closely to the model. For this shoot I had a lot more ideas for my model and I feel that this has been shown throughout.

Final Images:

Editing

I used a quick Shutter speed in attempt to capture as much of the model’s movement as possible. The quick shutter speed allowed me to get a lot of images that looked similar so that I could get a range of images for the same pose and then choose the sharpest image.

To edit the images I went onto Lightroom and changes the exposure, as the images were initially very bright, I then went and changed the levels of white and black in the image, once I had done that, I was able to change them to black and white. I kept the shadows quite prominent to highlight the fact that my model could be influencing others to express themselves and to not feel embarrassed.

Analysis

Men should be able to wear whatever they want without the fear of being judged by others . I asked the model to do this shoot as I knew he would be able to stay confident throughout the shoot. This was important to me because, I didn’t want to create a shoot that was specifically chosen to represent people feeling comfortable in their own skin, when my model felt self conscious etc.

I have kept the black and white images separate to the coloured images to highlight the fact that there is always two sides to everyone.

Favourite image

Editing

To take these images I used two harsh white lights to create the shadows on the background. I liked the fact that the lights created two shadows. I believe that it represents the fact that everyone has those personalities that we hide. It relates to the Novella, Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, by Robert Louis Stevenson. Stevenson writes about the fact that a very respectable Dr Jekyll, doesn’t always want to be the man everyone sees. This is where Mr Hyde comes in, Hyde is the evil side of Jekyll, he does all the things that if Jekyll was seen doing them, he wouldn’t be seen the same again.

I edited this image in Lightroom. I increased the level of black in the image because the lights created a slight shine on the skirt. It also made the safety pins that keep the shirt together more prominent.

I used a quick shutter speed to try and capture the majority of the movements that the model made. The image I have chosen does have some slight blurring around the arm; however I feel like it works well with the rest of the image. The blurry arm helps emphasise the change in people’s opinions and the fact that more and more people are beginning to accept others for who they are.

Analysis

This is my favourite image because the model has unintentionally replicated the iconic pose that Freddie Mercury adopted. Freddie Mercury didn’t care about what people thought about him, this is why I think this image is successful as our shoot was made to show that people shouldn’t care about what other people think about their appearance.

The fact that the image is in black and white, can represent the fact that some people have very old fashioned ideas, such as believing people should be limited to one style of clothing. The black and white image also represents the model’s fear of expressing himself whilst he is trapped in the male stereotype, which is often shown as a strong, emotionless and the support of the family.

The two tones of the shirt shows that there is never one explanation to something. You can always find a different way if you really need to. The fact that the image is black and white is quite ironic due to the fact we as a group are showing that nothing in the world is truly black and white.

Bayeaux Tapestry

The Bayeux Tapestry

The Bayeux tapestry was made to celebrate William I’s conquering of England in the Battle of Hastings in 1066.

There is no known precise date for when the Bayeux Tapestry was created but the academic consensus is that it must have been produced very soon after the events it depicts. This means that it is a key primary source for students of the Conquest period.

The tapestry contains a considerable amount of information not only about the political events surrounding the Conquest story, but also about other aspects of military, social and cultural history. Historians of clothing have gleaned much about Anglo- tapestry and Anglo-Norman garment styles and fashions from the depictions shown in the tapestry, while academics interested in early medieval ship-building, sailing and carpentry have likewise learnt much from the sections dealing with the construction and voyage of William’s invasion fleet.

What’s important to note is that as a source of information on the political events to the Conquest period, the tapestry actually offers very limited definitive evidence. The Latin inscriptions that run above the pictorial narrative are terse and limited in number. This ambiguity means we do not know, for instance, what Edward the Confessor and Harold are discussing in the first scene of the story. Nothing is said other than ‘King Edward’ above the frame, so we are entirely in the dark about the meeting and must infer from other sources as to what the designers are trying to tell us. That is a problem that persists throughout the tapestry, where we are constantly invited to infer what is happening from the pictures, rather than being told what is happening with words.

All information was taken from:

https://www.historyextra.com/period/norman/5-bayeux-tapestry-facts-what-is-it-why-was-it-made-and-what-story-does-it-tell/

Embroidery

Kara Walker

Kara Elizabeth Walker is an American contemporary painter, silhouettist, print-maker, installation artist, filmmaker, and professor who explores race, gender, sexuality, violence, and identity in her work. She is best known for her room-size tableaux of black cut-paper silhouettes.

Walker is best known for her panoramic friezes of cut-paper silhouettes, usually black figures against a white wall, which address the history of American slavery and racism through violent and unsettling imagery. She has also produced works in watercolour, video animation, shadow puppets, “magic-lantern” projections, as well as large-scale sculptural installations like her ambitious public exhibition with creative time called “A Subtlety” (2014). The black and white silhouettes confront the realities of history, while also using the stereotypes from the era of slavery to relate to persistent modern-day concerns. Her exploration of American racism can be applied to other countries and cultures regarding relations between race and gender, and reminds us of the power of art to defy conventions.

‘A Warm Summer Night in 1863’- work done by Kara Walker

This piece of work is very powerful. It shows the reality of life that many black people had to go through during the 19th Century, whilst slavery was going on throughout the world but especially in America.

The black silhouette represents the lynching that occurred between the 1830s and only ended because of the civil rights movement in the 1950s/60s. The fact that she chose to use the colour black has many connotations .

The colour black not only represents black people, but can also represent being cold. This could be representing the harsh conditions that the black slaves had to work and live in throughout the year, year by year. Being cold could also represent the loss of a life. When you touch a corpse, it is cold to the touch. Many people would have seen bodies hung around the streets because of the horrible lynchings that took place throughout the 130+ year period.

The colour black also represents darkness. Just like the darkness of the nights that people had to work through. But also the darkness that clouded over people’s mind to think that treating people in such a horrific way was okay.

History of Lynching in America | NAACP