“I myself have always stood in the awe of the camera. I recognize it for the instrument it is, part Stradivarius, part scalpel.”
Irving Penn
Irving Penn (1917-2009) was an American photographer known for his fashion photography, portraits and still lifes. Penn’s career included work at Vogue Magazine, and independent advertising work for clients including Issey Miyake and Clinique. His work has been exhibited internationally and continues to inform the art of photography.
Irving Penn’s iconic covers for Vogue Magazine showcased the clean lines and tapered waists of Postwar Paris and New York, and transformed the aesthetic of the fashion industry. Penn removed everything from the shot but the clothing and the model. His dramatically lit figures are essentially living, breathing sculptures. Inspired by Surrealism, Modern dance, and film noir, his images register as provocative visual statements, not just commercial photographs. With a firm grasp on the geometry of the body, the psychology of consumerism, and an encyclopedic knowledge of the history of art, Penn lifted fashion photography into the realm of high art.
In the 1970s, the world still viewed commercial photography and art as two separate fields. By making high quality prints from some of his earliest photographs, Penn helped audiences see that the tonal richness and variation of his photographs could be just as subtle as a Goya or a Rembrandt etching.
Penn was the first artist to fully recognize the potential for blending elements of fashion photography with portraiture. More than just live mannequins for the clothes, Penn’s models became psychologically complex, if still otherworldly, individuals.
Irving Penn | The Queen of Freckles
Above is a famous photograph taken by Penn titled The Queen of Freckles. It showcases his technique of using a plain white background behind his subject to put all the focus on the model. The model in this picture has long eyelashes and thick lips, as well as an ornate ring on her finger. She fits with the style of most of his fashion photographs which is class and elegance. Penn used the freckles to his advantage, and instead of covering them up, he made them stand out. Penn created a new style of photography and redefined the image of beauty with this photograph, as ‘imperfections’ like freckles were often covered up in this time. The subject of this photograph is in the centre and takes up almost the entire frame. Our eyes are drawn to her eyes which are framed with thick lashes. The model is looking straight at the camera. This photograph represents beauty and that it has more than one definition.
Below shows one example of Penn’s ‘Corner Portraits’ where he would put celebrities or his models into tight corners and awkward poses that revealed unfamiliar elements of their personalities to the camera. This was a favourite setup of Penn’s in the 1940s, he would often put them at a very tight angle, sometimes alone, sometimes with a prop (like Capote’s chair). The lighting is very simple, the walls are a light colour, which act as a bit of a fill, bouncing light into some of the shadow areas and increasing the range of tones in the final image.
Irving Penn | Truman Capote | 1948
Personal Responses To Irving Penn
Set Up
Above shows the set-up that I used and started with for this shoot. I used one of the smaller lights with the soft box over it to diffuse some of the light. I also used some of the lights that came above from the lighting rig and down onto her from above. This set up worked for me as it allowed enough light to fill the area and also allowed me to move the smaller lights to where I needed them to light her.
Contact Sheet of Shoot
Above shows my contact sheet from the shoot in the studio. It shows the range of positions I placed Ellie in to either conceal her face with fabric or clothes or reveal it and pronounce it with her hands. Unfortunately not all of the photographs produced became as clear and sharp as I wanted however there were a couple of successful ones which I went forward to edit into black and white as a response to Irving Penn.
Best Responses Edited into Black and White
Own Response
Above is a direct response to Irving Penn’s photograph ‘Queen of Freckles’ however here I feel I am particularly interested in Ellie’s eyes instead of something like freckles, her eyes for me are a feature that stand out as they are large open and wide which is why I always had her lock eyes with the camera.
Own Response
Here above again I am trying to make the focus to Ellie’s eyes by having her hide her face behind the flower and having it sit just below her eyes to try and emphasis them in a different almost ‘conceal and reveal’ kind of way.
Own Response
This is a more subtle kind of ‘conceal and reveal’. Unlike the other photographs I wasn’t specifically trying to focus in on her eyes or anything specific however I still had her look directly at the camera.
Own Response
Below shows an experiment that I produced with the flower being the only part of the photograph in colour which is something I think was good to experiment with not necessarily in response to Irving Penn but as a quick experiment that I could maybe explore more in portraits.
I conducted a photo shoot to explore all the different types of lighting within studio photography. The types of lighting I looked at was:
One Point Lighting
Two Point Lighting
Three Point Lighting
Ring Lighting
Warm/Cold Lighting
Intensity of the Light
Lighting Rig (On Ceiling)
All these lighting techniques have been explained in previous blog posts.
Set Up
My main light source had a diffuse on it making it a soft light, this was angles slightly to the right of my models face, making a chiaroscuro effect. I then added an additional light which was angles to the left of my model, this evenly lit up my model. Finally I used another light at the back. This was raised on a tripod and was facing directly down onto the model, making the model stand out from the background. Due to this it started to create an element of 3D in my photographs. I then played around with turning some of these lights off, but keeping them in the same place, to see what effect I could create. Moreover, I experimented with ring lighting. This is a singular light which is shaped as a circle, the light is usually quite cold and harsh. You are also able to see the ring of the light in the models eye. When using this light, I made sure it was my only light source. I positioned it to face directly at my model’s face. I then placed my camera through the gap in the middle to capture the model. With this lighting I experimented with the different background colors and the different types of white balance. Additionally, using this lighting I looked at taking macro photographs of my models eye, where you are able to see the ring. Finally, the last lighting set up I used where the ceiling lighting rig. I experimented by using the different lights and their positioning. With some of these photographs I also used the soft box light to make my model more lit up.
Another technique I looked at while trying to capture these photographs was, high key and low key. In my first set of photo shoots in the studio I mainly focused on low key where there is a lot of shadows and contrast found in the image. This time around I looked at high key photographs, where the images are much lighter and too some extent are over exposed. To capture these images I used harsh cold lighting and adjusted my white balance to make the images seem over exposed. Furthermore, I tended to stick with a white background in order to add to the effect of a high key image. When I come to edit these photographs my intention is to use the levels and curves to make these photographs seem brighter than they actually are which will also help to present these images as high key photographs.
Contact Sheets
Edits
These edits are the best outcomes from using ring lighting. Due to previous photo shoots conducted, the other techniques of lighting can be found in there outcomes. When it came to editing I simply adjusted the levels and curves to ensure that my images where sharp.
This macro photograph is of the ring light reflecting into my models eye. I decided to capture this as I believed that it was interesting and peculiar to look at. Due to the image being macro it allows the viewer to see all the detail of the facial features, from the eyebrows to the veins in the eye. This helps to present the formal element of line and texture.
In this final outcome I tried to use the inside of the ring light to frame my model. This has helped to make the model the main focus point of the image. Moreover, I used wind to move around the models hair which has allowed movement and an element of 3D to be found in this image.
Textures in Photoshop can be used to create different compositions by adding noise or colour or to enhance the purpose of an image.
It can be achieved by adding a texture or other image over the top of your final image, decreasing the opacity to blend the two or more layers together, creating the illusion that the image was made that way.
Mood Board:
The addition of textures to the appropriate compositions can enhance the power or effect of the image. It can also emphasise the message or story behind the photo by adding a second layer of visual “context” to the photo, giving further meaning or background to the ideas or concepts being presented.
When editing the photos I encountered a problem that I have mentioned in an earlier post and that is that because I had no trigger and a tripod not suited to my camera, I had some minor problems with camera shake and movement, I did partly fix it by having the camera on a timer but there was some slight miss-alignment in the editing but I did manage to find a way around it, and still produce the image that I wanted.
What I tried to do was just to layer each photo on-top of one another and simply rub out the areas where I was in the photo, however, because of the straight lines of the pews and the shake of the camera, that didn’t work, so I decided to add each photo one at a time on top of each other and before I put the next layer on I had a bank layer called “drawing” (seen as the top of the three layers above) and I carefully drew round each of the “me’s” and then rubbed out the filling from the red box each time, and after I did this on a layer I made the drawing layer invisible, by clicking the small eye next to it, and then merged the visible layers and built it up until i had the complete image.
Seen above is the completed image with all outlines.
When I went to take the photos there was a slight problem that the area wasn’t lit as well as I had hoped because the shoot took place in the evening an it was dark, to combat this I boosted the iso on my camera slightly higher than I would have liked but not so much that the grain was immediately evident. Then as I didn’t have a trigger and the tripod I was using is not very strong and I have a large camera my friend who was operating had problems keeping the camera still, the way that I combated this is I set the camera to have a 5 second timer and to take a two shot burst at the end of the timer. This eliminated most of the shake but there was still some.
SOME PHOTOS MISSING
The problem that I had is that image 3227-8 I sat in a bad place and didn’t realise until I reviewed them the next day. The problem was that because in that pose i was leaning onto the back of the pew in-front was being obstructed by a more important image that I later took that was more important to the shoot and would stand out more. So I had to leave images 3227-8 out of the final edit. And all of the images in the green boxes made it into the edit and some that wouldn’t appear on the contact sheet.
The plan that I have is that I will go to a local church and then I will set my camera up on a high tripod overlooking the pews in the pulpit. Then I will have multiple different poses that I will take in the pews and then I will have a friend take a photo using a remote trigger so that the camera doesn’t shake and the photoshop will be easier later. I will set the aperture to be about f/5 so that I will be able to have the same focus point for all the photos and I will still be in focus regardless of where I sit in the pews. I will also manually set the exposure so that there was no difference in colour. I also took multiple different outfits so that it would not look like I am just sitting in different places.
Who: I will be photographing any interesting townspeople of Jersey.
What: I will be taking candid photos of people throughout town as well as trying to capture the idea of movement and excitement in the town. I will likely stage a few photographs for more aesthetically pleasing shots in areas however the majority of the photos will be candid.
Where: I will be taking photos along king street as well as some of some of the outskirts of the town for some slightly grittier images.
Why: I believe that the best street photography are candid images since they effectively capture the subjects personality and mannerisms.
Street Photography is a form of photography that involves, as the name suggests, photographing interesting scenes in the streets. Photographers such as Bruce Gilden heavily explored street photography with Bruce in particular becoming a very prominent figure in photography due to his work with him becoming a member of an elite group of photographers known as Magnum Photographers. They often employed a more objective approach to their work while still taking artistic liberties. When successfully executed these photos can very effectively portray socio-economic status and can really say a lot about someone as they often capture a candid moment which can show the facade that people will apply when in public in order to not expose any insecurities or appear vulnerable.
While street photography is often considered a form of portrait, not all portraiture necessarily needs to feature a human subject in the frame and there are various examples of creative examples of portraiture of still life subjects with either no human presence or minimal presence in order to push a particular message.