Favourite Outcome

Distortion is a warping or transformation of an object and its surrounding area that differs significantly from what the object would look like with a normal focal length, due to the relative scale of nearby and distant features.

Here are examples of my distortion photography:

I like these images because in the first photo the background is warped inwards, and the face is dragged out. However, in the second photo the face is flat and you can see a lot more of the background.

Once again the face is contorted out and in the first photo the background is a lot more visible, with the face being very flat.

Aaron Siskind

Aaron Siskind was born on December 4, 1903 in New York. Siskind and Callahan, famous for their synergy as teachers and photographers, reunited in 1971 when SIskind left the Institute of Design for the Rhode Island School of Design where Callahan then taught.

Siskind was interested in surfaces and texture from the natural environment surrounded by us in everyday life. therefore my response to his work is focused between those two areas.

Most of siskind’s work is based in images of black and white which immediately sets his work to a more detail and higher levels of contrast. His work caught my attention as when taking photographs I like working with black and white as for me it brings details that wouldn’t normally be as visible when I’m colour. However this works the same for some images that are colour that if you edited to black and white wouldn’t be as outstanding to some. However siskind’s work is different due to his focus on texture and levels in the images.

These are just some of the images I have taken based on Aaron Siskind’s work on texture and surface.

Conceal/Reveal

In this task I used photo shop to create this circle photo effect:

I will explain step by step how I did this photo effect on Photoshop:

This is how I did it-

1. Open an image in Adobe Photoshop
2. Add a new layer from the layer panel > solid colour
3. Reduce the opacity in the layer panel to reveal your image
4. Click on the layer mask  (white box) in your layer panel
5. Choose the brush tool from the toolbox
6. Adjust the size of the brush using the “{}” keys
7. Check and adjust the opacity level of your brush (top bar)
8. Click on any areas of the image to create circular “holes”
9. Using the opacity slider in the layer panel, bring the level up to 100%

I really like how this image turned out and I like the style of this editing a lot, I think I may try this editing technique in the future.

This box is used when you want to decide where about you want your image to be mirrored at.

Here are a couple of examples of my final outcomes.

The steps i followed were pretty simple. I started by deciding which image i was going to edit first. Then by hovering over the image tab at the top and press canvas size i was able to drag the photo from one side to the other using the small arrow in the corner. After having selected it and by pressing control J.

Here is another example of the same image i edited but in black and white.

shutter speed is the nominal time for which a shutter is open at a given setting.

In film photography it was the length of time that the film was exposed to the scene you’re photographing and similarly in digital photography shutter speed is the length of time that your image sensor ‘sees’ the scene you’re attempting to capture.

Shutter speed is measured in seconds – or in most cases fractions of seconds. The bigger the denominator the faster the speed (ie 1/1000 is much faster than 1/30).

in most cases you’ll probably be using shutter speeds of 1/60th of a second or faster. This is because anything slower than this is very difficult to use without getting camera shake. Camera shake is when your camera is moving while the shutter is open and results in blur in your photos.

If you’re using a slow shutter speed (anything slower than 1/60) you will need to either use a tripod or some some type of image stabilization (more and more cameras are coming with this built in).

To freeze movement in an image (like in the shots of the birds above and the surfer below) you’ll want to choose a faster shutter speed and to let the movement blur you’ll want to choose a slower shutter speed. The actual speeds you should choose will vary depending upon the speed of the subject in your shot and how much you want it to be blurred.

In the subway shot below the shutter speed was 1 second so the movement of the trains on either side of the subject is beautifully blurred.

in the following seascape the shutter speed was 1/3 of a second and so we sea the movement in the water.

Remember that thinking about Shutter Speed in isolation from the other two elements of the exposure triangle (aperture and ISO) is not really a good idea. As you change shutter speed you’ll need to change one or both of the other elements to compensate for it.

For example if you speed up your shutter speed one stop (for example from 1/125th to 1/250th) you’re effectively letting half as much light into your camera. To compensate for this you’ll probably need to increase your aperture one stop (for example from f16 to f11). The other alternative would be to choose a faster ISO rating (you might want to move from ISO 100 to ISO 400 for example).

experimenting wit shutter speed

this photograph above of a home decoration lamp with multiple small filaments on the top scattered around was taken with a semi fast shutter speed.

this is the same photograph but this time it was taken with a slow shutter speed and the camera was slowly moved to the left while the photo was being taken

this photo was also taken on the same shutter speed but the camera was moved faster to the left

so we conclude that if you want to take a sharp image with nothing blurry like a sports photograph or a photograph of a moving animal or human we have to you a fast shutter speed , but if we are taking an abstract photo and want to create movement and color to the photograph we use a slow shutter speed.