White balance is a camera setting that automatically adjusts the color balance of light the you’re shooting in so that it appears a neutral white. This setting can also be set to manual which lets you create your desired colour balance for a photo. For example, if you are taking a photo of a white neon sign you might want to set the white balance to tungsten which will give the white a blue/purple shade.
Different types of lenses can give you a different range of zoom and focus. A portrait lens (wide lens) has no zoom only, this means you have to physically move close to what you are capturing, you can then adjust the focus manually. You also have have telephoto lens, which has an extreme zoom on it up to 200mm, from where you are standing, you can also use manual focus on this as well.
In this experiment these are the 3 types of lenses I used, a portrait lens, a regular lens and a telephoto lens. I used them all on a manual setting, so I could adjust the focus alone, to get certain parts of the photo in focus and sharp and the surrounding blurred out. 
I started with a telephoto lens, in these images I focused on blurring out mainly the background. By using text in an image it really shows the blurred background as the text is sharp and readable. Text just makes the sharpness more obvious. I also worked on depth of field with this camera, giving the images a deeper look, making it look like there’s more there than there actually is, by blurring out the closer objects are the whole background. By blurring out the background it make sit look like the scenery behind goes on for longer than it actually does.
I then moved onto the portrait lens. This lens was difficult to work with, but has become one of my favorite lenses. It was difficult because you had to physically move closer towards what you were capturing, but if you went to close or too far away the whole image would be in focus. This lens produces extremely sharp images, as the blurred surroundings is distinct.
I then experimented with the regular lens, this lens was okay and could easily capture the images I wanted but the focusing wasn’t as sharp as the other lenses could make it. And the sharpness of the focused object is important as it can make the photo.
ISO stands for International Standard Organisation.
ISO is a number that indicates how sensitive your camera is to the available light. The ISO ratings are auto,100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400. The ISO setting is directly set up with your shutter speed and aperture setting, to make the photos properly exposed. When the ISO rate is higher less light would be needed to obtain enough exposure. Over all changing the ISO settings on the camera increases or decreases the sensitivity and light gathering ability 
ISO 400
ISO 800
ISO 1600
ISO 200
ISO 100
ISO Auto
White balance is a camera setting where you are able to choose the best colour setting for taking pictures in your location so you are able to get the colour in your pictures as accurate as possible. On my specific camera there were 5 different options; Auto, Tungsten, florescent, daylight, cloudy and flash.
Auto is the automatic mode where the camera will decide which mode is the best based on where you are shooting. Tungsten is mostly used to shoot indoors under household lighting, as it usually cools down a picture. I noticed that the florescent mode warmed up my images. Daylight mode makes your images have a fairly normal white type of filter. The cloudy mode made my images look similar, except it warmed it up slightly more. Usually when you take pictures using flash, it can make your images turn out quite white and washed out. The flash white balance warms your images up a bit more to reverse this.
When taking images using certain WB settings, its important to have the correct shutter speed. If its too slow, your images turn out too overexposed. This happened while i was experimenting with my images, as you are able to see from my contact sheet.
Here is a video which further explains White Balance:
Manual focus is a camera setting where you have to focus on things you’re trying to photograph manually. This means that objects will not be automatically focused every time you point your camera at it, like they are with auto focus. Although this may be inconvenient at some times, it a good setting to use if you are trying to capture still things where can can afford to spend some extra time trying to focus on it correctly. This setting allows you to be able to focus on different things in your location. As you can see from my contact sheets I firstly photographed fruit. With the manual focus, I was able to individually focus on different pieces of fruit by adjusting the lens. I was even able to focus on the background of my images, Meaning that the objects in front were completely out of focus. With this setting you are able to manipulate your audience’s focus when they look at an image.
Some Examples:
The ISO on a digital camera allows the user to control how light sensitive the camera is.
The lower the ISO, the less light sensitive the camera is.
The higher the ISO, the more light sensitive the camera is.
The ISO allows the user to take photos in bright areas with a low ISO and in darker areas with an increased ISO.
When the ISO is increased, the quality of the images will be poorer. The images become grainy, less sharp and will have decreased amounts of detail.
ISO 100
ISO 400
ISO 1600
ISO 6400
ISO:
ISO simply stand for International Organisation of Standardisation. Changing the ISO of a camera controls its sensitivity to light, helping to manage the exposure of an image and prevent under and over-exposure of frames.
Changing the ISO changes the cameras sensitivity to light and can therefore allow for clean frames in lighter and darker places. The lower the ISO the lower the sensitivity to light, and vice versa to higher the ISO the higher the sensitivity to light will be. One downside to ISO is the higher the ISO the noisier or grainier an image becomes, as displayed below.
http://www.digitaltrends.com/phtotgraphy/what-is-iso/
Examples of my experiment in indoor lighting:
Settings: 200, 5.6 ISO 100-6400
Examples of my experiment in outdoor lighting:
Settings: 200, 5.6 ISO 100-6400
As shown in these frames as the ISO increases with each image the quality of the picture is reduced and seems more pixelated, this is often referred to as ‘noise’. Changes in ISO can allow photos to look more natural and visible, however the negative effect of a high ISO can sometimes defeat the object of changing the ISO.
However many photographers have used a high ISO to their images on purpose, in order to create the grainy effect.
Renger-Patzsch was born in Wurzburg on June 22, 1897 and passed away on September 27, 1966. He began making photographs by the age of twelve. After military service in WW1 he studied chemistry at Dresden Technical College. In the 1920’s he started working for the Chicago Tribune as a press photographer. He then left, and in 1925 he published his first book ‘The choir stalls of Cappenberg’. He had his first museum exhibition in 1927.
He released a second book in 1928 called ‘Die Welt ist Schon’. This is his best-known book, its a collection of one hundred of his photographs in which natural forms, industrial subjects and mass-produced objects are presented with the clarity of scientific illustrations (a visual approach to a scientific concept in a precise, clear and objective way). He believed that the value of photography was in its ability to reproduce the texture of reality. His archives were destroyed during WW2, and in 1944 he moved to Wamel, Mohnesee, where he lived the rest of his life.
My response:
In these photos I tried to to capture bold shapes like Albert Renger-Patzsch. I made all of them black them black and white to match the style, I also increased the contrast and decreased the brightness on some of the photos to bring out the shadows more which makes the shapes bolder. I also cropped the 1st and 3rd photos a lot as I wasn’t interested in the majority of the frame (e.g. I removed all of the empty sky from the drill photo).
