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Double Exposure

THE PROCESS: 

This was my take on the method of double exposure, which creates a blurry, fuzzy, duplication of the original image. This was a fairly simple photograph to create, first starting by slightly editing the original images to saturate the colours as the image tends to be quite dull without it in the finishing stages. I also increased the contrast in the image as I found that in the final piece, the glass disappeared due to its transparent appearance. I chose 3 images with the same composition but with slightly different angles.

I layered the 3 images on top of each other and by using the opacity tool, I changed how each images opacity was. The higher the opacity the stronger the image appears. When creating these images it is essential that the opacity of each image is similar to the opacity of the other two in order to create the sort of motion blur affect seen below. To finish of, I flatttened the image to merge the 3 together.

Adjustments made on the original image to adjust the saturation and contrast
Adjusting opacity to create the double exposure effect
FINAL PIECE

Focus Comparison

I have tried a few different ways of focusing on specific objects using the cameras to create effects such as creating a depth of field in some images. I have changed the focal length and have tried using auto focus and manual focus to see the better parts for each and how each are worse than others.

I have tried using manual and auto focuses. Manual focus lets you properly choose what you want to focus on in the image. This can be very useful if you want something off center or that is quite small to be the main focus of an image as auto focus usually seems to try to get larger objects that take up more of the frame into focus. Although, auto focus tries to pick a focus point. This on a lot of recent cameras has been made very well and can usually pick out the point you want to focus on.


This is an example of an image that has used auto focus that hasn’t worked as planned. I wanted to take an image with the pole in the background as the focal point, but auto focus tried to focus onto the plant in the foreground of the image.

For this image I then changed it to use manual focus so that I could choose the focal point I wanted. Doing this created a nice depth of field effect behind the pole and blurred out the plant in the foreground.

These are the other images I have taken by trying out different types of focuses, some of them I have used auto focus on and some I have used manual focus on. I have put them into a contact sheet and have put crosses and circles over some to show which may be worth looking toward editing and which I don’t like and don’t believe are worth using.

 

 

Minimalism – Jon Setter

Jon Setter is a photographer who was born in Detroit, Michigan and is currently living in Sydney, Australia. He received a Bachelor of Arts from the College for creative studies in Media Arts and is currently pursuing a master of fine arts from the national art school. His photography mostly focuses on urban space and architecture. He walks around the city and photographs a different perspective. Jon makes use of repeated formal patterns such as colour, materials and textures and organizes them to create an abstract expression of space. He finds inspiration from all over, such as fashion campaigns or other artists he follows on Instagram. His main influences have been other architectural photographers like Stephen Shore, Thomas Struth and Michael Wolf.

Jon setter’s minimal urban photography will inspire me when capturing my own minimalistic photos. Like Setter, I will pay attention to colour and texture to create man made spaces into geometrically satisfying compositions. Photographing a different perspective will help me get the results I want to create abstract images. I will take around 100 images, select 5-9 from the contact sheet and edit them to correspond to his vibrant style.

After selecting eight images from the contact sheet, I opened up photoshop and edited them to reflect Jon Setter’s photographic style. I increased the saturation and contrast on each photo to created vibrant, bold and sharp images to emphasise the formal elements such as  colour, shape, line etc. When capturing images on my camera I made sure to increase the aperture so my depth of field would be greater and my images would have  a sharper background. Overall, I think that I replicated Jon Setter’s abstract images as my photos are simplistic yet visually interesting because of the dominant formal elements that capture the viewers attention.

 

Abstract Photography – Experimenting with Photoshop

For this experimenting process I wanted to show abstract photography in a unique way. I looked at only revealing certain parts of the photograph using different shapes, in order to present key elements and present the formal element of space and shape.

For this first edit I decided to use circles to reveal certain parts of the image. To start off with I opened up an image, which I liked and have already pre edited. I then added a clipping mask above this layer and turned the background of it white. I then turned down the opacity of this layer allowing me to see the background, which allowed me to  see what will be shown by ‘cutting out’ a circle there. Then using the paint brush tool, I selected a circular brush and black paint, I then increased and decreased the brush size and pressed where I wanted the image to be revealed. I then turned the opacity of the layer back to full and added a drop shadow and a stroke which allowed the circles to stand out, adding an element of 3D.

 

 

For my second edit I used a similar idea of only revealing certain parts of the image using shapes. However, this time I used text and circles to complete this effect. To do this I opened up an image from my projection photoshoot. I then pressed ctrl + J which copied the background layer. I then clicked the create new fill button located at the bottom of the screen.  I then clicked solid colour. Once clicked I set the R, G and B boxes to 255 so I had a white background. I then dragged that layer below my Image 1 layer. I then added text saying the word ‘Abstract Photography’. Next I dragged the text layer below my image 1 layer to allow this idea to work. Now I made sure I was on the image 1 layer, then I right clicked the layer and pressed create new clipping mask. Once I did this put the text on the white background with the picture showing. I then pressed ctrl + t and shift to enlarge the text to fit my page. I then centred the text. I then clicked the fx and clicked drop shadow. I then adjusted the distance, speed and size sliders to allow the text to stand out more with a 3D effect. To complete this idea I repeated the steps from the first edit in order for the circles to be added.

 

For my final edit I decided I wanted to use shapes again to present the photograph . This time I used squares. Using the rectangular marquee tool I cut out this image into five separate sections. Then I decreased the size of each layer using the transformation tool (ctrl + t). I then added a drop shadow and a stroke to each layer, square, and arranged them accordingly.

Evaluating The Ideas

Overall I believe that all these ideas have been successful at presenting the theme of abstraction. Each idea has used shapes in a unique way, in order to reveal certain aspects of the image. Doing this has allowed the viewers to look at certain parts of the image which they may not have originally noticed. It also allows the main focus point of each edit be more visible and easier to identify. Due to the edits being the way they are there is a sense of negative space which is presented, making all the edits seem more ‘spacious’ which makes it seem much more inviting. I think that the drop shadows and strokes which where added at the end, helps the shapes stand out and creates a 3D effect. I am very happy with the way these edits have come out as they clearly show development of my understanding of abstraction. Moreover, these edits have helped improve my knowledge of photoshop, which has allowed me to experiment more confidently.

Depth of Field/Aperture/Shutter Speed

I have decide to experiment With shutter speed and Aperture and depth of field. I have included some examples to show my response to the task.



The Image above is a picture I took with the objectives above however I decided to edit it as it was too dark and you couldn’t see what was in the picture so below I decided to change the brightness and contrast so you can see what is in the picture. Personally I think that the outcome is better than the original photo however I don’t think it would be classed as abstract photography as their is to much to focus on in the image.



Here is another example of shutter speed and aperture



I like this image as you can see that it gets out of focus at the back of the image. For example you can see that the board closest is in focus however after that point it is out focus I am happy with the outcome of this photo so I haven’t decided to edit this photo as I think that the lighting is alright for this picture.


 

Layers

 

 

For the layers experiments I decided to experiment with different ideas, for example I tried the gradient solid back ground and then I tried a patterned background for one of the pictures and then I included a inverted picture on a patterned background.

 


For this picture above I have experimented with layers and I tried using the patterned background instead of using a plain one, In my opinion I would say that I prefer the patterned version gives a contrast and just having a solid colour for the background.



This Image I first used the invert tool to create the image a different colour and then I decided to use the patterned background to shift the focus on the image and the background.



This Picture is my favorite as the picture behind is very simple and it is abstract, then for the layers I decided to use the gradient version instead of one colour in my opinion I think this is very effective solution as the darker shadows of the picture contrast with the colours.

 


 

Shutter Speed

Shutter speed is the nominal time for which a shutter is open at a given setting. If the shutter speed it set to a faster fraction it means it’ll let less light into the photo, but if the shutter speed is slow, more light will be let in because the shutter is open for a longer period of time and can collect in more light and detail.

I experimented with a slow shutter speed and these are my results. In these photos I photographed a moving light which enabled the camera to photograph the whole image the light was drawing.


This image was also taken in a dark room along with a moving light, which created the lines in the image. I used a 4 second shutter speed this is so the image could capture more light of the light moving in the room. If i had used a fast shutter speed the image would have been blurry and it wouldn’t of captured the pattern of the light.

Ralph Eugene Meatyard

Ralph Eugene Meatyard was an american Photographer and optician. He bought a camera in 1950 after the birth of his first child and 4 years later, he had joined the Lexington camera club where photographer Van Deren Coke encouraged him to explore abstract elements of photography. Many of Meatyard’s early photographs  focused on his family wearing masks, but personally I find his abstract work more appealing. Many of these pictures involved using a very shallow focus, to the extent where some of the people he photographed were so distorted that they no longer looked human. The Picture Below is From his exhibition called ‘No-Focus’.

Ralph Eugene Meatyard’s ‘No-Focus’

He also photographed nature with a shallow focus, with some pictures showing the detail on twig branches, while others contain blurred images of sunlight piercing through tree leaves, creating several circles of light. even though both of these images contain similar content in terms of subject matter, the outcome is very different. The images Below are from another of Meatyard’s exhibitions called ‘Zen Twigs’. 

Contact Sheets:

Red Dot : edit or use for final image

Red Line: do not use/edit

Final Images

A lot of my images were especially inspired by Meatyard’s No-Focus.  I wanted to create the same distorted images of people that Meatyard explored, and I achieved this with varying degrees of success. I also wanted to put an emphasis on the person in the shot, so for the most part, i have only chosen to have one subject in the center of the photograph. This helps achieve a symmetrical style to the photo, drawing the viewers eye to the center. This is especially true in the final image I have chosen below.

I also wanted to focus on Meatyard’s Outdoor images of nature. I wanted to emphasize the circles of light that Meatyard shows in his picture. As well as leaves and sunlight, i also wanted to make sure i could encapsulate Meatyard’s pictures of ‘Zen Twigs’  By using a shallow focus to blur the background behind the images. The images I have chosen below, represent these two different styles.

Kaleidoscope Effect

First I anchored the image to the middle-left of the canvas, then I doubled the width of it. This makes space for a duplicate image.
Here is the image after the canvas size has been doubled. The purple area is the empty canvas
Here is the image once it has been duplicated. Using Ctrl+J and Ctrl+T I have duplicated the photo and flipped it onto the empty canvas creating a kaleidoscope effect.

Colour and Texture – Garry Gay

Garry Gay

Mood Board

Gary Gay was born in Glendale, California in the year of 1951. He has been taking digital photographs since the year of 1993. Garry Gay has had a successful carrier as he has been elected president in many photography clubs. In these images he captures a range of colourful household objects and spreads them out to capture the different objects that stand out.

The main focus point of Garry Gay’s work is the different colourful objects that are satisfying to look at. The formal elements found in Garry Gay’s photography are shape and texture. Shape is shown with the different sized and shaped objects in the frame of the image and texture is shown through the materialistic objects. The lighting used in Garry Gay’s photography seems to be bright and artificial, which allows the main focus point to stand out. To capture these amazing images I think Garry Gay has used a quick shutter speed, this is because there is no intended blur in his images. The photograph is taken at a straight on angel, allowing Garry to showcase the different objects. Contextually, these images are usually transferred onto puzzles, mugs etc which informs us why so much colour is presented in his photographic series. This makes the product eye catching and will want the customer to buy the product because of the bright colours he has captured. The background of Garry Gay’s photography seems to be something plain which allows the main focus point stand out more, or Garry does not use a background as he is showing a collection of items which cover up the background. This informs us that he has used a wide depth of field as usually the whole frame is in focus. Moreover, this tells us that the aperture used to capture the images is high, which also allows the whole frame to be in focus. Within this image, we can see that there is no noise, which tells us the ISO is low, as it is not that sensitive to the artificial lighting. Overall, I like Garry’s work as it presented both colour and texture in a unique way. It shows simplistic objects, but the images are captured in a way to make them seem much more interesting.

Planning

For this photoshoot I am going to look at capturing a collection of items, food and look at using a quick shutter speed to capture food colouring falling into water. I intend to copy Garry’s idea of collection of items, however the food colouring idea I thought of myself and thought that it would work well.

When Capturing the images, I will be using my DSLR camera on the manual setting, allowing me to control the aperture, shutter speed, focus and ISO. I will probably set these on a ‘standard’ setting but change them as and when I need to. I will capture these photographs indoors, using artificial lighting, allowing me to create different shadows. I will attempt to use a plain background as well, to make the images more like Gary’s.

For editing these images I want to look a different ways I could display the images, and manipulating them to make the photographs seem more captivating. The edits are not likely to be simplistic, however, I feel that it will help to presented the formal element of colour and texture.

Contact Sheets

Edits

Screenshots

First of all I created a new document which was landscape. I then copied a graffiti wall image onto the page. Using a gunge paint brush I taped on it to create texture in the photograph. I then opened the photograph I wanted to use and used the quick selection tool to cut around it. I then pressed layer via cut and place it onto the graffiti wall page. I then used the cutout filter on the sweets. The I added a new posterize, hue/saturation, brightness adjustment layers. I ensured these layers were clipping masks to the sweets. I then on the brightness layer used the same brush tool as before to reveal some colour. Next I then created a new layer and pasted the sweet cut out on again. I then went to filter and added a photocopy sketch and then another artistic cut out. Then to make the image blend into the wall I set the blend mode to multiply

I am really happy with the way this edit has turned out. My image has been blended in with the graffiti wall, making it seem more realistic. The colours are complimenting each other making it pleasing for viewers to look at. Texture and colour has clearly been presented by the graffiti wall. Although this edit is not like Garry’s I feel that I still have met the same artistic intention that Garry had when capturing and editing his images.

Screenshots

First of all I opened a new landscape document. I then went into the filter gallery and then into texture and then selected the texturize filter. I ensured that the scaling was 150% and the relief was 3. I then pasted the photograph I wanted to use onto the textured document and desaturated it by pressing ctrl + U. I then went into the filter gallery and set the filter to water colour. I then added a vector mask to this layer.  I then used a paint brush tool and black paint on the vector mask to dissolve some of the photograph, in order to add the bursts of colour later. I then created a new layer. Using pastel colours a used another water colour paint brush and started tapping around the sweets. I made sure that the colours blended well.

The three edits present the theme of colour, through the watercolours which are bursting out of the main focus point of the edit. The subjects have been pixelated, to present the formal element of texture and the background has been kept plain. This allows this edit to be more like Garry’s and allows the subject to stand out more, has more emphasis on the subject.

Screenshots

First of all I selected all the photographs I wanted to use. I used the ellipsis and tool and cut out a circle in the centre of the photograph. I then created a new document in order to put the circles on. I then turned the background colour to cream. I then moved the circle onto the new document and resized it by pressing ctrl + T. I then repeated this step till all the circles where on the document. I then added drop shadows to all of the photographs to add depth to the photographs.

The circles are used to help display certain aspects of these four images. Each section clearly shows colour and texture, making them all like each other in a way. The circles have a drop shadow and stroke, which pushes the sections forward making them stand out more. In this edit the background has also been kept plain, to allow the circles to be the main focus point and to make this edit more like Garry’s work.

Screenshots

First of all I selected the image I wanted to use and re levelled it.  I then ensured that black and white where my colours on the colours panel. I then added a gradient map by pressing the adjustment layer > gradient map. I then ensured that the vector mask was white . Then using the  paint brush tool I used the black paint and paint over the areas I wanted to be in colour. As I painted over the colour started to reveal. If I painted over an area  which I did not want coloured, I used the white paint and it went away.

I really like the use of the colour splash, as it allows the tips of the pencils to have a burst of colour.  This edit only really presents colour, however I still believe that this edit is still as successful as the rest. I like how only a certain section of the image is in colour as it allows the viewers eyes to be drawn to there first, making it the main focus point. I also believe that this edit still has met the same artistic intention that Garry had when capturing and editing his images.