Category Archives: AO1 Develop Ideas

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Photoshop Mirroring

Original Image

Editing Process 

Firstly I doubled the canvas height so I would have room for a copy.

I then Duplicated the image and selected it using the marquee tool, then I proceeded to transform the image.

Once I had transformed the image, the layers must be flattened to that the image will stay as one singular layer for when i next transform it.

Finally i decided to repeat the process to end up with this final Image.

Final Image

Double Exposure

Original image after a small amount of editing on lightroom (adjust contrast and exposure to make lights stand out more).

I then duplicated the image layer so that I could change the opacity settings.

Following this, I adjusted the opacity to 66% so that both layers are visible once layer 1 is moved.

Lastly, I moved the top layer around until i was happy with the final results.

Final Image

Experimenting with shutter speed

Shutter speed is the amount of time a sensor in a camera is exposed to light.

If the shutter speed is very slow, then the image will have a high exposure which means it will most likely be bright. This is an ideal setting to use if you are taking images in a badly lit place place as it will make the image less dark. This would not be ideal to use in a bright setting, as the image would most probably be more overexposed which means it would come out too white. A slow shutter speed is also idea if you want to purposely capture images where things are moving, to create a unique effect. This setting is used to capture light painting or a smooth water effect.

On the other hand, if the shutter speed is fast then the image would have a very low exposure this means it could cause the image to turn out underexposed, which would make the image come out darker than intended. This would be an appropriate setting to use in a properly lit scene as the sensor wouldn’t need to be exposed to light for as long in order for the image to come out with a regular exposure. Fast shutter speed is used to capture things that are moving very quickly, as the image will be taken a lot quicker

This diagram helps explain what shutter speeds are fast, and which ones are slow. 1/500 would be an example of a very quick shutter speed as the moving image is sharp and in focus, whereas 1/2 is a very slow shutter speed as the moving image is blurred.

 

This diagram is also useful in highlighting the differences in fast and slow shutter speeds. The image on the left was taken using a fast shutter speed. That is why the sparks in the image look like they have been frozen, and why the image is not over nor underexposed. However the image on the right was taken with a very slow shutter speed, which is why the sparks look like they are continuous lines.

 

Experimenting with a Quick shutter speed

1st attempt

 

2nd attempt 

 

My most successful outcomes


 

Experimenting with slow shutter speed

My most successful outcomes

Double Exposure

THE PROCESS: 

This was my take on the method of double exposure, which creates a blurry, fuzzy, duplication of the original image. This was a fairly simple photograph to create, first starting by slightly editing the original images to saturate the colours as the image tends to be quite dull without it in the finishing stages. I also increased the contrast in the image as I found that in the final piece, the glass disappeared due to its transparent appearance. I chose 3 images with the same composition but with slightly different angles.

I layered the 3 images on top of each other and by using the opacity tool, I changed how each images opacity was. The higher the opacity the stronger the image appears. When creating these images it is essential that the opacity of each image is similar to the opacity of the other two in order to create the sort of motion blur affect seen below. To finish of, I flatttened the image to merge the 3 together.

Adjustments made on the original image to adjust the saturation and contrast
Adjusting opacity to create the double exposure effect
FINAL PIECE

Kaleidoscope Images / Mirror Imaging

I have edited this image and created a kaleidoscope image by doing so. Firstly, to do this I have put the image into photoshop and cropped an edge because I did not want it in the image.

Secondly, I have gone to image > canvas size so that I could double the width of the canvas. Then I used ctrl+j to create another layer with the same image on it.

I then transformed this image by clicking ctrl+t and flipped it over by grabbing the middle box on the right side of the original image and pulling it over all the way to the far left.

I then flattened the outcome into one layer and changed the canvas size again to make it double the height and then copied the image to a new layer and transformed it to flip it up to create the final image.

 

Focus Comparison

I have tried a few different ways of focusing on specific objects using the cameras to create effects such as creating a depth of field in some images. I have changed the focal length and have tried using auto focus and manual focus to see the better parts for each and how each are worse than others.

I have tried using manual and auto focuses. Manual focus lets you properly choose what you want to focus on in the image. This can be very useful if you want something off center or that is quite small to be the main focus of an image as auto focus usually seems to try to get larger objects that take up more of the frame into focus. Although, auto focus tries to pick a focus point. This on a lot of recent cameras has been made very well and can usually pick out the point you want to focus on.


This is an example of an image that has used auto focus that hasn’t worked as planned. I wanted to take an image with the pole in the background as the focal point, but auto focus tried to focus onto the plant in the foreground of the image.

For this image I then changed it to use manual focus so that I could choose the focal point I wanted. Doing this created a nice depth of field effect behind the pole and blurred out the plant in the foreground.

These are the other images I have taken by trying out different types of focuses, some of them I have used auto focus on and some I have used manual focus on. I have put them into a contact sheet and have put crosses and circles over some to show which may be worth looking toward editing and which I don’t like and don’t believe are worth using.