Original Image
Editing Process
Firstly I doubled the canvas height so I would have room for a copy.
I then Duplicated the image and selected it using the marquee tool, then I proceeded to transform the image.
Once I had transformed the image, the layers must be flattened to that the image will stay as one singular layer for when i next transform it.
Finally i decided to repeat the process to end up with this final Image.
Final Image
For this project, I attempted to show contrast between colours and textures through the medium of photography. Colours and textures allow for photographs to become more interactive, as a viewer can be drawn in by bright and contrasting colours, and texture allows for the photograph to feel more genuine and real. Because of this, the use of texture and colour in photography is important, and for this project I have attempted to portray these factors in a more obvious way, allowing viewers to see how colour and texture can really effect an image.
For my inspiration for researching texture in photography, I decided to take influence from the work of Ernst Haas, specifically his water photography.
Haas was fascinated by the concept of water, the way it reflected light and the dynamics of its movement. Haas’ water photography maintains an abstract feel, yet displays clearly the unpredictable way that water moves and interacts with its surroundings. Haas often edited and cropped his photographs in order to abstract the context of his images, and used colour and grey-scale to experiment with different ways of further abstracting his images. Below are examples of Haas’ work with photographing water:
As displayed, Haas makes use of contrasting tones and colours in order to draw more attention to his images. Bold colours draw the viewers eye, while the use of texture in the images (often due to the movement of the water) allows for the viewer to stay intrigued, as it gives the image an sense of realism, and enables the viewer to relate to the image.
After analyzing the work of Haas, I produced a photo shoot focusing on emphasizing the colours and textures naturally found together. I tried to focus on colours that contrasted one another, and textures that really draw attention to the image. Below is the contact sheet as a result of my photo-shoot:
I took inspiration from Haas, and in doing so produced a photo-shoot which heavily took into account the texture of the image subjects. For my images, I focused on zooming into details, which in turn produced photographs displaying texture, such as the image pictures below:
This image makes use of both colour (contrasting the darker background with the lighter toned water droplet) and the rough texture of the rust at the top of the image, and the way that this contrasts the smoother texture of the water droplet. Haas often used darker tones in his image backgrounds, to emphasize the water that would typically reflect the light, and present as a brighter, lighter tone. I have taken inspiration from this method, and I believe it is an effective way to show contrasting textures through the use of light and shade.
The above 2 images were taking using a slow shutter-speed, and I feel like these images focus more on showing contrasting colours. The image was taken with an ISO of 1600, and so the photograph is very bright, which I feel exaggerates the colours, and helps to show the contrast between the yellow and white portions of the image. This image is still using the subject of water, but I feel that the combination of a high ISO and slow shutter-speed has helped to distort and abstract the image, so that the main focus of the viewer becomes the colour and texture, rather than the subject itself.On top of the bright colours used, I feel that the texture also draws the attention of the viewer, as the movement of the water captured by the slow shutter-speed has caused the texture of moving water to be captures, especially towards the middle of the images. This gives the images a rippled effect, and helps to present them as more 3D, rather than a flat image, which in turn draws the attention of the viewer.
In addition to taking inspiration from Haas, I also further explored the use of, specifically, colour in photography, by taking inspiration from the photographer Franco Fontana.
In order to explore colour using Fontana as inspiration, I first analysed his work in order to understand how he used colour to best emphasis how the different colours contrasted each other. The following image is a collection of his work that I used for inspiration:
Fontana uses very vibrant and bold colours in his photography, which helps to emphasis the contrast of colour, which draws a lot of attention to his work. Fontana typically uses naturally occurring bold colours, usually focusing on buildings and field landscapes, in order to draw attention to the bold and bright colours that can be found in everyday life.
After analyzing Fontana’s work, I produced a photo-shoot of my own, using the same mindset and bold colours that occur in Fontana’s work. The below image is the result of my colour-focused photo-shoot:
This colour focused photo-shoot
Having a slow shutter speed means that the image you’re taking will have a high exposure and will most likely be bright. When taking pictures in badly lit image using a slow shutter speed is ideal as it will make the image less dark. A slow shutter speed is good for taking pictures which are moving which helps to create a very unique effect which has purposely been done.
However, having a fast shutter speed makes the image have a very low exposure which means the image will be underexposed and the image will come out a lot darker than intended. A fast shutter speed is appropriate when you are wanting to light a scene. This shutter speed is used to capture moving objects as the image is taken a lot quicker.
Example
For these shoots i will firstly take slow shutter speed images. These images will be taken of moving cars to see if i can capture the ‘ stillness’ of the moving car which will contrast to the background which will show the car is moving due to the blurring, I think this will be hard to capture due to the car being constantly moving.
For the second photo shoot of high shutter speed images i plan to take jumping pictures of my friends. This will be done in front of a plain white wall so that nothing distracts from the main subject which will be my friends in the air.
My most successful images
Experimenting with high shutter speed
Double Exposure involves the overlay of an image over the top of an existing one, while being able to see both the overlay and original.
In order to achieve this you can use two techniques:
Camera:
Most cameras come with a double exposure mode, allowing for two or more photos to be taken over the top of each other within the camera itself.
Photoshop:
By duplicating or adding in another layer over the top of the existing image and altering the opacity then moving the image to create the effects demonstrated below.
For this experiment, I decided to alter the hue of separate layers in some instances to give off a trippy effect
Original image after a small amount of editing on lightroom (adjust contrast and exposure to make lights stand out more).
I then duplicated the image layer so that I could change the opacity settings.
Following this, I adjusted the opacity to 66% so that both layers are visible once layer 1 is moved.
Lastly, I moved the top layer around until i was happy with the final results.
Final Image
I’ve chosen this image for my mirror effect piece because it includes multiple lines which I can use to create an interesting abstract piece.
To start, I went and doubled the canvas size to make space for the mirror image. I went to image, and then to canvas size. I then went and changed it from centimeters to inches, and then doubled the size of one of the lengths.
I then went and pressed control + j, which copies the image and pastes it as another layer. I then used the select tool to select the top layer, and then pressed control + t, which selects the image and allows you to adjust the size and orientation. I picked the point on the far side to the right, and pulled it across to the left, creating the mirror image.
I could have stopped there, but I decided to develop it further and mirror the image the other way. I repeated the process but did it so it was being flipped upwards instead, and this is one of my finished results.
First I overlapped the background layer image with a similar image.
Afterwards I changed the opacity of the overlapping image to 50%
I then changed the exposure of the background image to make it brighter and to add variation in tones.
here are a few other images I have created using double exposure.
On the camera there are 6 different lighting settings which include: daylight, shade, cloudy, tungsten light, white fluorescent light, and flashlight. They can be changed through the WB button.
Below are some pictures of a rose taken at the same position of the same view but different light settings at dawn.
In this photo it was taken with a flash on sunlight settings which is about 5200k
This is the same photograph but this time it was taken with shade white balance settings which is about 7000k
this time the photograph was taken using the settings of the white balance set on cloudy which is approximately 6000k
in this photography he white balance settings was set on tungsten light which is around 3200k
this photograph is a bit similar to the tungsten light one but this one was set on white fluorescent light which is similar but a bit higher at 4000k
last but not least this photo was taken with the white balance set on flash which is the most appropriate because the flash was being used and it was dark.
so we conclude that even though your taking the same photographs they will still differ depending on the white balance your on. and if you what the camera to do the work for you just put it on automatic white balance.
Shutter speed is the amount of time a sensor in a camera is exposed to light.
If the shutter speed is very slow, then the image will have a high exposure which means it will most likely be bright. This is an ideal setting to use if you are taking images in a badly lit place place as it will make the image less dark. This would not be ideal to use in a bright setting, as the image would most probably be more overexposed which means it would come out too white. A slow shutter speed is also idea if you want to purposely capture images where things are moving, to create a unique effect. This setting is used to capture light painting or a smooth water effect.
On the other hand, if the shutter speed is fast then the image would have a very low exposure this means it could cause the image to turn out underexposed, which would make the image come out darker than intended. This would be an appropriate setting to use in a properly lit scene as the sensor wouldn’t need to be exposed to light for as long in order for the image to come out with a regular exposure. Fast shutter speed is used to capture things that are moving very quickly, as the image will be taken a lot quicker
Experimenting with a Quick shutter speed
1st attempt
2nd attempt
My most successful outcomes
Experimenting with slow shutter speed
My most successful outcomes
After I redid the post it note shoot on 11/10/2018
This photo shoot was far better. I got the right combination of expose and shutter speed. I moved the post it notes quick enough so in some of them you cant see my hands.
