The next technique I will be experimenting with is a “kaleidoscope” technique. For this method, I will be duplicating and copping my image to reflect it 4 times to create an unusable visual affect, similar to looking through a kaleidoscope. Below are the steps I took in order to achieve my final image:

Firstly, I opened up my image so that I was able to modify it. First the changed the canvas size by doubling the width.

Next, I pressed Ctrl + t to be able to drag out the second layer that I had copied to create the image in the screenshot below:

Next, I also doubled the length of the image above.

I then repeated the previous steps and added another layer, the dragged it down to complete the picture.

Original image:

Edited outcome:

I really like the effect I was able to achieve using Photoshop on this particular photo. In my edited outcome the image has been reflected a few times. I think this definitely helps my image fit more into the abstract theme, as now that it has been manipulated it is a lot harder to tell what it is at first. I think this effect definitely helps the image become more pleasing to my audience as the image now has more of a symmetry to it, which perhaps makes it more attractive.

Here I will be experimenting how to make my images more abstract by using a Photoshop technique where I purposely cover most of my image, and then reveal selected parts on my image. I think this is a very interesting technique as it means that the photo will be a lot more mysterious as most of it will be covered.

Firstly, I chose the image I wanted to use. For my first attempt I chose this image that I took during the Martin Creed inspired part of the unit.

Next, I added a new layer, and I also added a layer mask so I was able to change the opacity on my layer.

I then ended up with the back overlay of my image, that looked like this. This the layer that I would be selectively getting rid of to be able to only view certain parts of the photo.

Next, I had to lower the opacity so I was able to see what parts of the image i was rubbing away.

Lastly, I rubbed out the parts of the image I wanted revealed through the black layer and when I was finished I turned the opacity all way way up to 100% again so it was fully black.

This was my final outcome. I’m very pleased with how this photo turned out for many reasons. I really like how the Black layer contrasts really well with the white paper. I also really like how the black layer meant that i was able to reveal the most interesting aspects of my image. I made sure that the most successfully scrumped part of the paper could be seen from a bigger circle than the rest so that the audience’s attention would be drawn to it first. I also made sure that part of a shadow could also be seen through a circle, as this is another successful contrast created in the original image.

Different types of lenses can give you a different range of zoom and focus. A portrait lens (wide lens) has no zoom only, this means you have to physically move close to what you are capturing, you can then adjust the focus manually. You also have have telephoto lens, which has an extreme zoom on it up to 200mm, from where you are standing, you can also use manual focus on this as well.

In this experiment these are the 3 types of lenses I used, a portrait lens, a regular lens and a telephoto lens. I used them all on a manual setting, so I could adjust the focus alone, to get certain parts of the photo in focus and sharp and the surrounding blurred out. 

I started with a telephoto lens, in these images I focused on blurring out mainly the background. By using text in an image it really shows the blurred background as the text is sharp and readable. Text just makes the sharpness more obvious.  I also worked on depth of field with this camera, giving the images a deeper look, making it look like there’s more there than there actually is, by blurring out the closer objects are the whole background. By blurring out the background it make sit look like the scenery behind goes on for longer than it actually does.

I then moved onto the portrait lens. This lens was difficult to work with, but has become one of my favorite lenses. It was difficult because you had to physically move closer towards what you were capturing, but if you went to close or too far away the whole image would be in focus. This lens produces extremely sharp images, as the blurred surroundings is distinct.

I then experimented with the regular lens, this lens was okay and could easily capture the images I wanted but the focusing wasn’t as sharp as the other lenses could make it. And the sharpness of the focused object is important as it can make the photo.

ISO stands for International Standard Organisation.

ISO is a number that indicates how sensitive your camera is to the available light.  The ISO ratings are auto,100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400. The ISO setting is directly set up with your shutter speed and aperture setting, to make the photos properly exposed. When the ISO rate is higher less light would be needed to obtain enough exposure. Over all changing the ISO settings on the camera increases or decreases the sensitivity and light gathering ability 

ISO 400

ISO 800

ISO 1600

ISO 200

ISO 100

ISO Auto

White balance is a camera setting where you are able to choose the best colour setting for taking pictures in your location so you are able to get the colour in your pictures as accurate as possible.  On my specific camera there were 5 different options; Auto, Tungsten, florescent, daylight, cloudy and flash.

Auto is the automatic mode where the camera will decide which mode is the best based on where you are shooting. Tungsten is mostly used to shoot indoors under household lighting, as it  usually cools down a picture. I noticed that the florescent mode warmed up my images. Daylight mode makes your images have a fairly normal white type of filter. The cloudy mode made my images look similar, except it warmed it up slightly more.  Usually when you take pictures using flash, it can make your images turn out quite white and washed out. The flash white balance warms your images up a bit more to reverse this.

When taking images using certain WB settings, its important to have the correct shutter speed. If its too slow, your images turn out too overexposed. This happened while i was experimenting with my images, as you are able to see from my contact sheet.

Here is a video which further explains White Balance: