Gender Equality | Fashion

I realised that students rarely make a fashion magazine when doing the A2 coursework so I decided  to make one. I wanted my work to be different from everyone else’s and to showcase it in a different and unique way. I came up with a relevant topic to impact my spectators which I also have strong views on, I wanted it to have an underlining message that is obvious to the spectator and that they are able to see clearly throughout. For this idea I want to carry on my work of self-portraiture and dressing up as both the male and female characters in my photographs. I aim to make advertisement images that almost mimic images that I’ve seen of models making ad campaigns and also exaggerating it and somewhat making a joke out of it. Also, I wanted to make fashion inspired images  in the magazine dressing as both the male and female characters wearing the clothing that both men and women wear. I really like the idea of having no boundaries in fashion and feeling inspired by fashion from both men and women I feel that it is important  for people not to feel restricted in how they can express themselves in their own clothing. I believe that men should be able to wear skirts and dresses without feeling embarrassed or being labelled as ‘gay’, Scottish men wear kilts and thats fine but anything else is seen as radical. Also, the fact that is is seen as weird if they wear a tailored suit or baggy ‘tom-boy’ clothing. Someone who is a huge advocate for this is Jaden Smith and I really love that he has become the new face of Louis Vuitton womenswear because it is so true that men and women should be able to wear whatever they want and we shouldn’t have to gender specify clothing and separate from one another. However, there are two sides to this. I do think that there are certain types of clothing that more so needs to be modelled by women and needs to be modelled b women. Women and men are shaped differently and so the ideal would obviously be a model for women who has breast and commonly larger hips whereas men would usually prefer a male model with broader shoulders and more muscular features. That is simply how our bodies are and we can’t really help or change that. Ultimately, I do think that if worn in the right way men and women shouldn’t have to feel restricted by stereotypes given to men and women hundreds of years ago. I feel that there is a lot to say on this topic and I want to express this through my own work, it’s so interesting to me and I want to develop it further. I also think that this has a lot to do with body image and being the ideal being. Both males and females have to deal with stereotypes and expectations given through advertisements and models. Body types are so different and people are shaped differently yet we all aspire and try to look the same way.

Emma Watson on gender equality within the fashion industry:  http://www.vogue.co.uk/voguevideo/genres/film–tv/2015/06/emma-watson-he-for-she–inspirational-gender-equality-un-speech

I came across an article the other day with the release of the latest Louis Vuitton campaign for womenswear with male actor and musician Jaden Smith becoming the new face of the project. Smith has always worn more out there pieces with dresses and skirts being a part of his everyday wardrobe. However, Smith doesn’t wear feminine looking pieces that are fitted to the shape of the woman, he wears pieces that are baggy and are on trend. I really like his style as it is unique and looks great, he manages to stand out. Smith wants gender stereotypes to be scrapped and his aims of this campaign is to change the worlds perception of what both men and women should and could wear. This reminds me of what Claude Cahun was trying to bring across in her own images by smudging the lines between having a male identity and female identity against stereotypes. I really love the ad campaign for Louis Vuitton as I think that it will get people talking and I like that Jaden is using his fame to make the world aware of issues such as gender stereotypes and the pressures that men and women are put under in order to fit in with what society expects us to look like. I also think that it has a great deal to do with the internet and how we are all so involved with broadcasting our lives on social media, we almost become accustomed to judging one another and being judged.

Link to Louis Vuitton article:  http://www.pinknews.co.uk/2016/01/04/jaden-smith-named-as-the-new-face-of-louis-vuitton-womenswear/?utm_source=PNFB&utm_medium=SocialFB&utm_content=FBJW&utm_campaign=PNFacebook

Media coverage on Jaden Smith ad campaign:  http://www.usmagazine.com/celebrity-style/news/jaden-smith-poses-in-a-skirt-for-louis-vuitton-womenswear-w160721

‘Tomboy’ and ‘girly-girl’ are names that I’ve grown up with and become accustomed to. Growing up I was always the girly-girl who wore pink EVERYTHING and seemed to aspire to becoming a princess when I grew up while my two best friends growing up were both seen as tomboys and would run around and not care about how they looked. Don’t get me wrong I loved running around and playing outside with my mates but because of the way I dressed and the fact that I liked the colour pink meant that I was labelled as a ‘girly-girl’. We are constantly faced with labels throughout our lives and often that feels restricting and confining, although at the time I liked being a girly-girl and I thought that was the norm. I believe that as youngsters we shouldn’t be encouraged to dress or look a certain way, we should be taught to freely express ourselves and wear whatever we want. Throughout history men have worn dresses and skirts such as the Roman period and gladiators, Greek God’s and the people, Egyptian pharaohs and typical Egyptian people. All of these time periods show men and women wearing the same clothing just in slightly different ways to flatter and work well with their physique which I think looks great and we should embrace the past and bring it back into our modern world. I feel like white English people have almost become culture-less and don’t really have anything that is definitively English and it doesn’t stand out. The Scottish have kilts which have been around for centuries and haven’t lost their same patriotism or presence within the Scottish community. The vast black culture in America have their African cultures in their fashion and their vibrant clothing. I just feel like our modern first world countries have almost lost what we had and we need to embrace our cultures more and bring back old fashion traditions that allow us to remember and honour our ancestors as well as becoming more accepting of one another and our different fashion choices without worrying how it looks on us because we are female or because we are male.

history of clothing

I feel like this topic is becoming more wide scale and will be a huge part of 2016 as people are looking more and more for gender equality. As a modern society we are very stuck in our ways and don’t like change or anyone that stands out from the norm. We tend to focus on the negative attributes of people and what they are wearing and their physical appearance when in reality it shoudn’t be all about that and people should be able to wear whatever they want without feeling that they are going to be judged or ridiculed by others.
Other current issues which are seemingly surfacing in the past year and finally changing is transgender people. Recently, a film came out titled The Danish Girl based on a true story about a female who was trapped inside of a males body. This film was really interesting and emotional to watch, really giving me an insight to how transgender people feel and what it could possibly to like to be trapped inside the wrong body. This is a really powerful film and was actually 15 years in the making as it took a long time to do all the accurate research and to get the project off the ground. I think that this film is very powerful and addresses well an issue which has become so widely talked about with the transition of Bruce Jenner becoming her true self as Caitlyn Jenner. The issues with this aren’t in the people who are transgender but the issue lies with those who don’t understand it and who don’t wish to understand it. Those people who think that it isn’t  natural and so shouldn’t be the case and isn’t a part of nature. These are the people who also stereotype men and women and have separate expectations and standards for both genders. Your sex defines whether or not you have male parts or female parts but gender is a set of stereotypes given to individuals belonging to a sex that can have positive or negative impact. Usually, being labelled and stereotyped as a gender can be quite negative as people are making assumptions about you as a person because of your sex and because of the skin that you were born in which is completely wrong and something that I want to explore in my work and defy through my photographs. I want to challenge the gender norms and stereotypes and smudge the lines between being explicitly male or female.

Essay Plan – Research

Pieter Hugo – KIN

In Pieter’s photography book “KIN” he said “About eight years ago, I started to photograph the notion of “home” whatever that might mean, as both intimate and public place.” Pieter wanted to ensure his investigation with the place or inanimate thing called home was and what it is like for one’s self. “Home is where belonging and alienation coexist.” I really admire Pieter’s work and how he decided to photograph how the word “home” can mean and look so different with different people. His adventure into Africa is what really inspired me as a photographer. In his book, he has taken images of people from African tribes and made them pose on a typical, standard bed. Then visa-versa with British people in more a tribal environment is interesting to look at. His essay is very interesting to read, rather than explaining why his photographs were taken, he let us imagine the reasoning behind it and instead, told a unique story about the type of people in the images and the society that surrounds them.

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At a traffic intersection, Johannesburg, 2011

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Phillipp Ebeling – Land without past

Phillipp Ebeling’s book is a combination of both archive and present photographs.  This idea coincides with my idea of using the archive photographs to present how time changes things and show the change by using powerful images. Phillipp lived in village near from where his grandmother lived during the second world war. Her village was destroyed and all that was left was rubble. He moved to London when he was 19 years old and stayed there, he decided to venture back to his village where he used to live as it was part of his identity and shaped part of the way he functions as a person.

His images reflect what his childhood was like and I like how quirky some of the images are. I especially like the image of the loft where the children’s toys are placed. I love the colour popping in the photograph, it shows a real sense of childhood. The image of his father mowing the lawn is also one of my favourites as it one that relates to my topic and gives me inspiration for the kind of images that I want to take of my dad.

Woodstreet, Waltham Forest

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My mama at Hendrik's confirmation meal.

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Sam Harris Research

The photo book called ‘The Middle Of Somewhere’ is a family journal that Sam Harris kept of his children, Yali and Uma growing up in their remote home in the South West corner of Western Australia. This photobook is a follow on from his previous work called ‘Postcards from Home’- this project was based on his family migrating from London to Australia in 2008.

“As I witness my daughter’s transformation in what feels like the briefest of moments, I’m compelled to preserve something of our time living together”

Sam Harris is a photographer and educator. As a teenager he taught himself photography, turning his London bedroom into a makeshift darkroom. Throughout the 90’s Sam photographed portraits and sleeve art for numerous recording artists. He also worked as an editorial photographer for publications such as The Sunday Times Magazine, Esquire, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine and Dazed & Confused.

Sam’s photobook Postcards from Home (a self published limited edition) has received several awards including the Australian publishing industries Galley Club Award ‘Australian Book of the Year’ 2012.

I really like the style of photographs that Sam Harris takes, he try’s to capture the excitement of a moment, which in some of his photographs means; not all of the subject are in the photograph, it might be out of focus or there could be movement blurs. He pieces his photo books together by using other resources other than photographs. For example he has shopping lists and post-it notes also included.

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This is an image that I have taken from Sam Harris’ photo journal. This photo tells a story of the mother telling the child off for something. The little girl is upset and is crying, there are motion blurs from the girl crying which I think are very effective as they emphasize that the girl is upset and make the photograph more relatable.

This is a very busy image; as well as the two subjects, which is the main focus of the image,  there is also a busy background of a family home. The overall coloring of the photo is fairly dull and contains neutral colors, this is so the main attraction to the image is the two girls.

ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE

 Greek classical sculptures/ ideal forms

Images and icons:

Mapplethorpe’s pictures and self-portraits are described as ‘photography’s handmade nature’. His images show the history of art and the movement of the muscular body. 

‘While we may admire the form, the grace, of a sculpted nude, when we learn its name, say Apollo or Hermes, our comprehension of the significance of the form blossoms to include a narrative that lies beyond the plainly visual’
‘I went into photography because it seemed like a perfect vehicle  for commenting on the madness of today’s existence’ 

‘I have boundless admiration for the naked body. I worship it… sometimes, looking at a model, you think you have found nothing. Then, all at once, little by little, nature reveals itself, a strip of flesh appears, and the shred of truth conveys the whole truth and enables you to rise at a single bound, to the absolute principle of things’  (Mapplethorpe 2004: 47)  

ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE AND THE CLASSICAL TRADITION

In Robert Mapplethorpe’s book ‘Robert Mapplethorpe and the classical tradition’ he focuses on images from around the 16th century of Greek classical structures and sculptures of men but also women. The people in these images are very muscular, which when taken in the 16th century it is not something that you would think everyone would be interested in looking like. Also these images from the 16th century raise questions as to whether this is why people nowadays have been so interested in going to the gym and getting them self the ‘perfect/ideal’ body that they want. When going through the book most of the images are from the late 16th century in part of the book but parts are also of Robert Mapplethorpe’s images which he has taken of body builders, most of which are of the body builders naked, from different angles. In these images it shows the different muscles of the body builders. Some of the images are portraits of the bodybuilders or of different people, these images show the faces of the bodybuilders. Most of Robert Mapplethorpe’s images he is trying to replicate the images from the late 16th century to show the human physique. 

 

 

 

Artist references: Chris Dorley-Brown and Lydia Goldblatt

The Longest Way Round: Chris Dorley-Brown:

Chris Dorley-Brown creates a visual journey of his family’s history through archival images joined together with new photographs captured since his parents death. The project is an alternative narrative of the course of events that shaped his family’s life. The work investigates personal experiences, memory and identity. It offers an intimate story of a unique view of the world war and the impact on a British family. During World War Two Dorley-Brown’s parents Peter and Brenda had known each other as childhood friends for many years. Peter who was 19 at the time, volunteered as a heavy artillery sergeant and managed to survive the Battle of Crete. He also survived four years as a prisoner of war in German camps and a ‘death march’, consisting of more than 500 miles in extreme weather towards the end of the war. At the same time, Brenda has married twice and given birth to one son from each relationship. She traveled to the US in 1945 with her two young sons, however, when he relationship in the US quickly broke down she decided to come back to Britain in 1946, although with only one son, leaving her second child behind with his American father. Peter and Brenda met again in Southern England in 1947 and married. They traveled through Europe in order to visit friends from the wartime and what remained from camps, during a precious time of recovery from the war. Both were dealing with the trauma of their own personal experiences and began to attempt to build a life of normality. ‘The Longest Way Round’ includes lots of wartime letters that reveal what life was like. Dorley-Brown’s images explore the postwar journey of his parents. The purpose of the work is to emphasise the hardship of war and a love story that followed as well as sense of closure for the author’s story. 

Personally, I have connected to this project and this particular artist the most compared to others I have studied. This is due to the concept of wanting to find your history and story. My grandfather was a massive influence and part of my mother and grandmother’s life, and in some respects mine as well. However, because I was only eight years old I did not know him as well as I would of wished. I think the project explores the relationship between his mother and father and the love they had for each other but also the difficulty and struggles they found with life before they met. Dorley-Brown uses a lot of archival images which reflect the state of society at the time of war, it shows the individuals lives before they met. I like how there are letters included because it brings about some sort of feeling of personal and closeness. It is like a mini insight. 

http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/gallery/2015/dec/04/chris-dorley-brown-father-hidden-past-nazis-in-pictures


Still Here: Lydia Goldblatt:

Goldblatt’s project stemmed from the idea to capture the inevitable changes brought about by her elderly father’s looming death. She endeavors to explore perception and the inner experience as much as a physical presence. ‘Still Here’ tells a story of the ever changing being and its constant flux. The offers a concentrated interpretation of mortality, time and love. It traces the indefinable holds that sculpt our individual existence. Goldblatt began photographing her father in 2010. He was 91 years old and his health had been getting worse over the years. She had continued to photograph her parents in their home until her father’s death in 2013. Goldblatt said the experience allowed her to connect with her father, clearly highlighting the invisible bonds of love. The project engages with the nature of shifting time.  

“Further down the line, he became more absent than present, but there were points when I’d pick up my camera and it gave him a sense of purpose,”

The work is mainly about the photographer’s family, but it cannot be ignored the highlighting of the nature of life. It presents photographs as a way of opening up an poetic interpretation. The images in the project are a combination of close up shots of the human form, as well as, still lives, portraits and abstracts. A story which has been told with tenderness addresses the delicate issue of growing old with the consideration of the changes we all must face in life. I really enjoyed looking through Goldblatt’s book, I think she has managed to photograph a difficult and personal topic in such an insightful and remarkably beautiful way. She has made the images have a certain effortless feel at the same time as addressing poignant issues. I especially like the close up images because they give you a different perspective. They allow the audience to visually see a unique view which can bring new ideas about as well as connect people with recognising themselves in the image. The book is a true piece of art in my opinion.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/photography/10312393/Lydia-Goldblatts-Still-Here-an-essay-born-of-the-intimacy-of-family-love.html

http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/books/reviews/photography-book-review-still-here-by-lydia-goldblatt-8874246.html

 

ESSAY PLAN – PERSONAL STUDY

Title/question: The essay should focus on the title or question which i am addressing for this personal study. The title needs to involve the idea of Greek mythology/ the ideal body but also the idea of males being so obsessed with the gym.

Introduction: In my introduction i will explain the main body of my essay and what i am trying to discuss. The beginning paragraph will begin with a quote, and will contain artist movements and other photographers which i have been influenced by.

Essay ideas:

  1. How the idea of the perfect body is explored through the idea of Greek Sculpture
  2. How the idea of the perfect body is explored

Paragraph ideas: 

  • How photographers capture movement (Eadweard Muybridge’s chronotopia – the human figure in motion – illustrations
  • How Greek sculptures have presented the human body since BC to give us the idea of the ideal form
  • How we have been presented with the perfect form/ultimate thing to be (Plato) 
  • Why younger men are getting more interested into the gym/ more into fitness
  • How males are presented in photography / media

Planning stage:

The essay needs to follow a strict structure, where i focus on the thing i want to discuss one after the other. I will discuss my essay title and have a topic of discussion for each paragraph. I will be hoping to have 4-5 large paragraphs which i will discuss my essay in extra detail. 

 

 

 

 

 

Hypothesis

Objective: Criteria from the Syllabus

  • Establish coherent and sustainable links between your own practical work with that of historical and contemporary reference.
  • Show evidence for an on-going critical and analytical review of your investigation – both your written essay and own practical work in response to research and analysis.

Words associated with my personal study:

  • Working environment
  • Culture/ background
  • Female stereotype
  •  Hard working ethic
  • Mum
  • Family history
  • Male stereotype
  • Dad

Possible questions:

  1. How does my mum’s culture and background influence her work ethic?
  2. To what extent does my family history influence my mum’s work ethic?
  3. Does my mum work fit into a stereotypical female role?
  4. How does my mums culture and family history impact her work ethic?
  5. How does my mums role as breadwinner abdicate from her culture?
  6. In what way is my mums work ethic influenced?

Essay structure 

Hypothesis/ question

An opening quote – work photographers

Introduction – state what I am going to be looking at, why and my influences.

Paragraph 1  – talk about my mums family history, her background and culture and about her move to Jersey.

Paragraph 2 – Explain the different jobs that my mum has and talk about her work ethic and make links to her background and education.

Paragraph 3 – talk about my mums role at home (main breadwinner) – stereo typically men provide for the family link to family history. Link to female roles and feminism?

Conclusion – answer the question.

My Specification | Main Projects

For my projects and essay I will be focusing on making a book and a short film to go with that book. If I can I also want to create a fashion magazine as this is something that really interests me and I have plenty of ideas that I want to create for it. I am focusing my work on feminism and the unfair advantages and disadvantages faced with both men and women. I will be focusing on two different aspects of feminism, the first being the unfair stereotype given to women of being the carer and basically live to serve, doing all the cooking and cleaning for the family and/or her husband. I also want to focus on smudging the lines between gender stereotypes of fashion. Both topics really interest me and I want to be able to explore them further.

Main Idea | Personal Shoot

I want to look into the life of my mother and how she is a working housewife. Meaning that she has a full-time job and works from 9-5 yet is this expected to come home and do all of the chores and house work, cooking and cleaning, that a housewife would usually be expected to do. I want to make a short film of my mother going about her everyday chores and what does on a regular occurrence. From those film clips I want to make film stills, inspired by the work of Cindy Sherman, and edit them into strong images. After this I want to then mimic the work myself in a parody sort of way to make my spectators focus on what is going on in the images and how old-fashioned it is for the woman to be doing all of the chores and housework. I will also be interviewing my mum and asking her various questions about feminism and her role in the family. This will go along with my short film that I will be creating. I think that this will be a really fun and an interesting project to do as it is more personal and I do think that the images will be more interesting for my spectators to look at.

– make videos of my mum doing her everyday chores at different times and basically film what she is doing. I want to make it more artistic and film in more artsy and creative ways instead of straight on boring video. I will be turning this into a short film with a voice over of an interview with my mum on her role in life and how she feels about it. I want to find out more about what she deems acceptable within our society and why she has raised me differently and more openly to how she was brought up. After collecting this footage I will make images from this of screenshots of my mother and I will restage these images of myself in front of the camera almost parodying her role and how I don’t want to have that same role and don’t accept to be stuck in an old-fashioned way of life.

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Second Idea | Fashion and Gender

For this idea I want to create a fashion magazine dressing as both the male and female subjects of all of the images from the magazine. I have taken inspiration from Claude Cahun on smudging the lines between male and female stereotypes and want to explore this through the world of fashion. I have ideas of exaggerating ad campaigns that I have seen before to almost parody the ridiculous expectations put on both men and women with models acting and portraying the ‘perfect form’. Mainly this idea will focus on smudging the lines between the male and female expectations of fashion as I think that this is such a huge thing in recent times and will make the most impact on my spectators. I took inspiration for this from the recently launched ad campaign featuring Jaden Smith as the new face of Louis Vuitton womenswear. I find this so unique as Smith is bringing attention to gender stereotypes that we are all faced with but deem acceptable, this needs to change.

– make images in studio dressed as both the male and female model [wearing wigs and different clothing]
– possibly make images dressed as a different cultured woman [muslim] to show the difference in society [extra idea]
– make an image dressed as the Egyptian woman Nefertiti to add to the magazine [possibly, extra idea]

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